OIB: Chalga

I don’t think any description of Bulgarian life is complete without the inclusion of Chalga.

Known also by the more euphemistic term “pop-folk,” chalga is a style of music that, as far as I know, is unique to Bulgaria. Usually you’ll find it while flipping through the channels (somewhere between CityTV, the Voice, and MTV Europe) to find a half naked girl that only goes by one name dancing provocatively to a strange mix of techno and an array of Bulgarian, Turkish, and Roma folk instruments. Despite the inclusion of folk instruments, the connection to actual folk is weak at best, and I’m pretty sure it’s referred to as pop folk just to give it some sort of artistic credibility, which it rarely ever receives anyway. Lyrics almost invariably include at least one mention of “Tvoito tialo” (your body) and “Surtseto mi” (my heart), and either “Iskam teb” or “Iskash li?” (“I want you” and “Do you want?” respectively).

During my time here in Bulgaria, I’ve developed somewhat of a love-hate relationship with chalga in all its forms. While it could possibly be the most annoying and vacuous of all music forms, it’s something uniquely Bulgarian and a big part of life here. The children here love it (just as children in the States grew up with similarly horrible pop), but strangely the love for chalga knows no age. Sometimes while eating dinner or going na gosti, your hosts will leave a tv on looping chalga videos. This includes babas. It’s hard to say if it’s better to let them know that you don’t like it or that it’s destroying any and all culture in this country, or to give in and embrace the horribleness.

In most situations, I’ve gone with the latter.

Since I’ve touched down in Bulgaria, I’ve attended a chalga concert in a broken down stadium in Dupnitsa, danced kyuchek with coworkers at a Christmas party and on New Years, bought a chalga CD from what I have dubbed the “chalga salesman” at the pazar, and (since moving to Preslav) woken up to a steady stream of chalga hits blasted through my wall every morning. I have dedicated a chunk of my time at the orphanage every week to dance to some awesomely bad chalga songs with the kids in the tv room.

Since seeing is believing, I’ll share some of my favorites from my time here so far. Click the titles to check out the video:

Djena - "Shte Te Spechelia" Translated to “I will win you,” this is your typical break-up song, only with the inclusion of an electric form of some sort of folk instrument (could be a horn, gaida, fiddle... who knows). The video is amazing for a few reasons: When her butler informs her with a handwritten note “He now is with her!” Djena begins a transformation to win her boyfriend back. From what I can gather, these changes include giving up smoking (because the other girl smokes), giving up lipstick (because the other girl wears lipstick) and giving up her car in an attempt to get the other girl away from her boyfriend (I think). You’ll just have to watch for yourself, but beware the “twist” at the end.

Preslava – “Novata Ti.” (“The New You”) This very well might be my kids’ current favorite song, evidenced by the fact that they scream it at the top of their lungs whenever it comes on. The song features what actually sounds like a catchy mandolin riff, but that’s nullified by the pop beat under it and throaty singing. I’m sure something happens in the video, but for the most part it’s just a vehicle for Preslava to pose provocatively in a nice hotel. I think she’s stealing some other girl’s man?

Nelina – “Nyama Nashi, Nyama Vashi.” (“Not Ours, Not Yours”) This singer is a real folk crossover, and I know this only because I watch the Planeta Folk channel (all Bulgarian folk, all the time) every day and saw her singing folk songs. Therefore this song might actually qualify to be called "pop-folk" as it has an actual tinge of Bulgarian folk music to it, and is sung by a folk singer. As for the video, I'm still just trying to figure out what is going on. I think a few girls are fighting over a guy. But then there are some guys checking out some girls. A soccer ball gets involved. Then I think everyone dumps each other and they all start a dance party. That smile sure is enchanting though...

Ustata – “Male Male.” (“Male” is an expression here in Bulgarian used to express disbelief, sort of like “Oh my god”) This is the rap side of chalga. As a matter of fact, it might not even be considered chalga, but this guy does collaborate with chalga stars very often. I place this song in the category, however, for its use of a Balkan Brass band, its ridiculous lyrics, over the top video, and performer with just one name.

And of course no description of chalga would be complete without mentioning AZIS. Azis is somewhat of an anomaly in the world of Bulgarian culture - a large, cross-dressing, Roma (what English speakers typically call "gypsy") singer. Somehow the unlikely combination of all these factors combined with a wildly flamboyant personality has turned him into one of the most famous people in all of Bulgaria. I believe he has his own tv shown now as well... Michael Palin did an interview with him on his travel show not too long ago. If you'd like to check it out, as well as get a glimpse into his music, click here.

Regardless of what you might think of chalga, it’s an inescapable force that’s here to stay. For now, I’m off to dance to some kyuchek…

Until next time…