Trip to Greece (after a blog hiatus)

I made my last blog post in the beginning of March. As the end of April approaches, I am sorry to say that I have sat down several times to write a blog, but couldn't find the words. Over the next couple of days I will try to remedy that situation.

Much has happened, the biggest of which has been a visit from my family to Bulgaria, the completion of my fitness room project at the orphanage, and a trip to Athens (from which I just returned last night). These large scale events always make writing much easier for me, because sometimes it takes something big to make me recognize all of the smaller noteworthy things, reflect on them, and then finally share them with everyone. So I'll start with the event that's still the most fresh in my mind - the trip to Greece, and then I'll work back from there, and hopefully the momentum will help get the words out.

Originally I had planned to go to Belgium, and had booked a flight out there and made all the necessary reservations and plans and everything. The first flight got cancelled due to the situation arising from the Icelandic ash that blanketed northwestern Europe for a bit. I arranged for a flight a few days later hoping that everything would be cleared up, and upon arrival to the airport a few hours early, it seemed that everything was a go. However, at 4:30am, the departure board suddenly changed to show a big red "cancelled" notification next to my flight again. A young Belgian couple next to me contemplated taking a bus from Sofia to Paris, and then on to Brussels. I contemplated following them (since the window in which I could take vacation was closing), if only that trip wouldn't have taken over 36 hours. My best laid plans had suddenly been lost in the volcanic ash forever, and so I trudged back temporarily vacationless to Sofia's center to reformulate things.

After a time, I got it into my head that I would head south into neighboring Greece. Armed with my guidebook and a sleepless mind, I quickly pulled together something vaguely resembling a trip, and would spend 4 nights in Athens and its environs. It struck me as I finished making these hasty plan and laid down for a quick couch nap before heading to the bus station that this is probably the only time in my life I will have been able to, almost completely on a whim, change my travel plans form one continental extreme to another. The next morning, I woke up in Greece.

Athens had always been a place high on my list of places I wanted to visit, having studied Greek mythology and history for a majority of my childhood. The stories always captivated me, and instilled in me a deep interest in history. It was exciting to finally step off the bus and have everything made real.

I think the first thing that struck me was how big and modern the the city of Athens is. I think in visiting these historic places we originally have this romantic notion that it's all ruins and history, without stopping to think that over the course of 3000 years, a very real city has developed on the same spot. The result is an awesome layering effect - having ancient ruins laying directly beneath newer buildings from the late 1800s and then modern architecture topping it all. This creates a real sense of place while walking around town.

After arriving I walked directly to the center, where I had a quick breakfast and then headed straight on to tackle the sights - the most impressive of which is the gigantic Acropolis, to which I'll dedicate another separate blog post.

Chestita Baba Marta

With the arrival March, the Bulgarians symbolically ring in the arrival of the Spring season with the uniquely Bulgarian holiday called Baba Marta. Baba Marta, literally "grandmother March," is the personification of the first month of Spring. She is an old lady, who brings flowers and sunshine when she is happy, or rain and cold wind when cranky.

The first day of March also brings with it the exchange of martenitsi - red and white bracelets given to represent the new life and purity that spring will carry with it. Tradition holds that you have to wear these bracelets until you see a flowering tree. At that time you take off the martenitsi and tie them to the tree. This is one of the only things I can think of that only exists in Bulgaria.

Martenitsis tied to a flowering tree

Here in Preslav, Baba Marta must still be pretty angry, since we've been having rain recently, with more cold temperatures and rain lingering in the forecast for a while longer. However, when she showed up at the preschool she seemed pretty happy. On second thought that wasn't the real Baba Marta, but a staff member dressed up to give martenitsis to the kids. Songs were sung and games were played to celebrate the arrival of Spring. At the orphanage, more martenitsis were distributed from various groups around town. Most of the children's wrists cannot be seen under the sheer number of them all. As for myself, I got a few from people around town, including from the preschool staff and from the other members of my horo class.

I'll be wearing my martenitsis until I see that first bud on a tree around town. Although I'm not particularly superstitious, I'm secretly hoping this will lend success to my fitness room project...

Until next time...

There's Always Something

It’s been a long time since my last update, for whatever reason. Maybe it’s because of laziness, maybe an inability to put my thoughts into words lately, but not for lack of things to write about.

There’s always something to write about.

Several things have come and gone, some of them noteworthy enough to write a blog post about (my fitness room project coming up will get a blog post soon), some of them somewhat newsworthy but not exciting or interesting enough to have a blog post written about them (my birthday and the Super Bowl, or Kukeri which I posted about last year), and many of them not exciting or interesting at all (going about my daily life, or how I do laundry seemingly every day now).

So with all that in the mix it gets harder to work up a blog post of any substance. I like writing about things that I feel have some weight to them. I like the end result of what I write to be a fully thought out result of an observation I make, or a trip I go on, or something of the sort. And I hope the end result comes out well on the side of the reader. That is unless you readers would like me to write up a daily account that would read more like a to-do list than anything cohesive or (what I would perceive as) interesting.

The reason I was inspired to write something today was from a quote taken from a conversation I had with my coworker the other day. We were discussing an unfortunate event that happened earlier in the day. A couple of the orphanage boys skipped out on class, stole some bags and started running. They were eventually caught, but the damage was already done. The boys were scheduled to be transferred from the VP orphanage to a different one. The discussion was hardly surprising, but what took me was what she said during a pause in the conversation.

“There is always something to be angry about.”

Now I suppose this is true, but it seemed to capture the essence of working here perfectly. This is a place in which you have to pick your battles, to focus on the good things that happen, and to take every day one step at a time. Often the situation here is to forget those common pieces of advice and to expect everything from everyone all the time. When someone thinks that things should be perfect all the time, of course you’re going to be constantly angry.

However, it’s not just a reaction, but an expectation. People (including myself) have fallen into the trap of expecting something bad to happen at any time. When we have the expectation that something will get on our nerves or go horribly wrong, the chances are we will highlight it when it does. It also clouds our ability to seek out the positive things during the day. So of course, with this mindset of expecting to get angry, a host of problems arise. We identify the children we work with as being impossible to help rather than searching for their strengths and developing them (the view of most people here in town). We treat children as problems to be dealt with rather than individuals who are constantly learning and gathering information about the world around them.

And with that being said, the danger is that children develop the same view from the influence of the people they learn from - that they are problems that need to be dealt with, or could do something that will cause an anger explosion at any time. The expectation becomes that they cannot change who they are, and who they are is a bad kid who cannot do good, or is stupid, or will never do anything of consequence in their lives. The case today may have stemmed from our expectations of them as “bad kids.” The boys might as well have carried the label as a bumper sticker on their foreheads. And of course they played the part today. And of course people were angry about it.

But this is to ignore the good things that happened on the same day. This is to ignore the positive steps taken by other kids. Rather than thinking that there is always something to be angry about we should remind ourselves that something positive happens every day. More than that, children are constantly developing in positive ways that we cannot readily identify in the moment. Admittedly this is more difficult, and very hard to see day to day. That’s what makes being in this line of work so challenging, and at many times frustrating. The progress isn’t always easily evident. There may not be a clear talking point at the end of the day, while bad events are readily identifiable and easy to latch on to.

It’s just a matter of training yourself to believe that one small, hard to identify positive outweighs the gigantic negative.

Until next time...

East to Istanbul

So after less than a day of rest in my site after Christmas, I was back on the move – this time for a week long trip down into Turkey to the gigantic and ancient city of Istanbul (or Constantinople… however you prefer…).

The change was apparent as soon as we stepped off the bus as we tried to negotiate a decent cab fare – the first in a long series of haggling that would become one of the themes of the trip throughout the week. After a relaxing first night walking around the area of our hostel and settling down with a hooka, we got up and started to tackle the city. And when I say tackle the city I mean wander around aimlessly, stumbling on interesting things along the way. I usually prefer to explore cities by getting lost in them…

The first day we took a lot of pictures in the main square, which features 2 incredible buildings right across from each other…

On the left side stands the Blue Mosque – the crowning achievement of Sultan Ahmet and built by the same architects (apparently) that designed the Taj Mahal (a dubious claim, but interesting nonetheless). As you get closer and closer to the building, the scale becomes more and more apparent, despite the delicate appearance of its domes and minarets. The Blue Mosque is fully functional, and calls to prayer blast from the minarets 5 times a day – long drawn out wails that can be heard throughout the city. Inside, the floor is divided into two halves – one side for worshippers, and the others for those just passing through. Both sides seem to offer an equally impressive view of the interior of the mosque, which is decked from floor to ceiling in individually hand painted blue tiles, giving the building its nickname.

On the right side of the square is the gigantic Hagia Sophia (pronounced Ayasofia, and translated as “Holy Wisdom”) historically one of the most important buildings of Christianity before it was sacked and turned into a mosque by the Ottomans. Built over 1500 years ago when the city was the capital of the Roman Empire, the structure has been added on to over the years, allowing a visitor to peel back layer after layer of history. Standing in the great hall is a breathtaking experience, as one looks up into what was once the largest dome in the world until St. Peter’s was built about 1000 years later. The contrast on the inside is unmistakably apparent, as historians have started to uncover the early Christian frescoes and mosaics that adorned the ceiling and walls. Right next to these ancient paintings lie Islamic decorations and references to Mecca. In this way, standing in the Hagia Sophia not only serves as a reminder of so many great eras of human history, but also serves as a connection between two major world religions (often at odds with each other) – a very humbling experience indeed.

Also located on a far corner of the square is the entrance to the Basilica Cistern, a magical place of water underneath the streets of Istanbul. The huge room once served as the city’s water supply and dates back to the Roman times. This is evident in the 400 columns that support the arched ceiling of the chamber, which feature all 3 major Roman architectural styles – Doric, Ionic, Corinthian. Two of the columns stem from images of Medusa, turned upside down and sideways in order to negate the evil gaze. This is apparently to protect the place from harm. Apparently they have done a good job, as it’s still standing despite the chamber’s extremely fragile appearance. Recent renovations have placed a beautiful lighting system throughout the cistern, creating a mystical atmosphere as you walk around this amazing and ancient place.

The second day brought us to the famous Grand Bazaar, a neverending maze of corridors and alleys that spans an entire district of the city, all lined with countless vendors selling everything from scarves to carpets to drums. Of course, each one claims to have the best goods in the whole city, and of course this means that they want you to pay a premium for it. But then the fun starts… “For you my friend I give special price," and the haggling begins. Every interaction with the vendors is an intricate dance – wavering between too high and too low, until you land somewhere in the middle. I think I fared pretty well for myself, buying a Turkish drum and a scarf for myself.

The madness didn’t end there, however. We also made a stop at the Spice Market, which was even crazier than the Grand Bazaar in its vendors’ pleas for business and haggling. Smells ranging from the sweet to the pungent bombard you on all sides, as you walk down the great hall lined with mounds of herbs, tea, and Turkish delight. Regardless of the massive crowd, I made it out of there with a pretty good sampling of spices.

There were relaxing parts too, such as a stroll along the sea, and our exploration of the old Topkapi Palace. The confines of the palace offer the best views of the city and of the Bosphorus Strait, which divides European Turkey from its Asian side.

Upon leaving Istanbul, I realized that just one visit to this place is not nearly enough to absorb all that this place has to offer. The sheer size of the city alone (ten million… Bulgaria, by comparison, has a total of 7 million people in the whole country) is enough to make one realize that there are probably countless treasures hidden throughout… places that will never make it onto any map or into any guidebook. Our group found one such place, and its friendly owner treated us to an incredible New years experience... Dancing horo together with strangers and friends alike under the fireworks as the whole city rang in New Years is something that I will never forget.

The whole trip left a good taste in my mouth, and I definitely want to return not only to Istanbul, but also deeper into Turkey, a beautiful place at once Middle Eastern and European, and serving as the perfect blend of both.

Until next time…

Peace Corps presents Christmas Vacation

Hey all… It’s been a little while since my last post, but it’s also been a little while since I’ve been home to even write one. I just returned from an epic vacation that I’m still kind of reeling from. This was my longest break yet, and well deserved if I might say so myself.

My final day in Preslav was spent running a talent show and game night for the children of the town in which I, once again, was somehow coaxed into dressing up as Diado Koleda/Santa Claus. Early the next morning I was off to the mountains far far away from my site. It took an overnight train and then an additional 5 hour bus ride, and then another 30 minute cab ride to reach the place, but the journey was worth it. We got in at night, so we couldn’t really see how beautiful the place was until we woke up the next morning. However, the amazing food that kept coming was as good a sight as any. Plus the company was fantastic. We basically relaxed by the fire, played games, watched movies, and sang songs the whole time. Basically a very laid back time, which was just what I needed.

This is the view I was greeted with out the window next to my bed when I woke up...


Delchevo is a small village high up in the mountains near the Greek border, looking down upon the regional center of Gotse Delchev. The place has been preserved as an ethnographic site, sealing its appearance as it might have looked 100 years ago. Cars cannot access most areas of the town, and all the houses are located along tiny cobblestone roads and old goat paths. In fact, goats freely wander the town, and old ladies with wispy beards talk about them to you as you wander.


The town seems to be in an interesting state of transition as many of the old houses are converted into fully renovated guesthouses and apartments. We stayed in one of these guesthouses, and it felt nicer than a lot of hotels I’ve stayed in. Right next door was a ramshackle barn that could have been over a hundred years old.

The main attraction, however, was Christmas dinner, made by none other than 2 of my fellow group members. A gigantic spread of every carb imaginable was presented to us, and it was amazing – baked ziti, cheesy potatoes with sausage, broccoli and rice, not to mention the dozens of desserts contributed by everyone. White elephant gift exchange was played, like last year, and I ended up with an amazing book, which I was pretty happy about and have been working on over the past couple weeks.

Alas, there was no snow, but there was no complaining from this Florida boy. The whole couple of days seemed Christmasy enough for me, spending time with good friends in a great place. But the vacation was not over just yet – I headed back to my site, only to turn back again a day later on an even longer trip down to Istanbul, which was a trip that I will not soon forget… and the topic of the next blog post…

Greg in the News

SO recently the local newspaper did a feature on none other than yours truly. The following is a translation of the article in its entirety (and no I didn't just make up the translation). The article is pretty positive I think, if not a bit random. But hey, I'm glad that they think I'm newsworthy haha...


Gregory Herb: Now Veliki Preslav is like my home

Greg Herb is the volunteer from the Peace Corps in Veliki Preslav since last October. Greg is from the State of Florida. He has been in Bulgaria since July of 2008 and now can speak Bulgarian very well.

In school he studied Psychology and Child Develoment at a university in the States. His mother is a teacher, and his grandfather is a college professor. Maybe from there he got his interest in education and working with children. He says that his interest is working with at-risk children - orphans, minorities, the Roma people ("gypsies"). In Bulgaria there is an opportunity to work with these children he says. Because of this, a part of his work in Preslav is at the local Home for Children. He helps with math, English, and reading. There is competition in sports, and participation in art. They learn life skills which are very important for them in his opinion. He works in small groups of about 5-10 children. He tries to get every child to participate in at least one group every week. In his opinion, the children are not very aware of of the dangers of the use of narcotics, of human trafficking, of prevention of HIV/AIDS, of alcohol and nicotine addictions.

"The orphanages in America are different from the local kinds," describes Greg. "The children are placed in smaller houses and more volunteers work with them. The children are placed with foster parents more, and they are more comparable to these SOS Villages in Bulgaria. In America, only children who do not have parents or who have parents but that absolutely cannot care for them can stay in orphanages. There are many organizations that work with these children and make many things possible for them, such as finding a new home, because this is very important for them" says Greg.

Other than the orphanage, he works also with the children at the preschool. He teaches them how to begin to speak words, to know the different colors, and different skills such as washing hands for example.

"Now Preslav is like my home. I have many friends here," says Gregory. He says that sometimes it is hard to be far from home but that his loved ones know that his work is here, and that they support him.

One of the many skills of Greg is cooking. He cooks alone in his apartment, and cooks soups, moussaka, and other Bulgarian cuisine. "Here there are great fresh vegetables. In America, there are more preservatives and less fresh food," says the volunteer. On the topic of Bulgarian television, Greg says he follows "Survivor" and "Dancing Stars" but does not like the soap operas.

For Christmas, the American plans to meet in the mountains with his other colleagues. He hopes there will be snow, so that there will be a good holiday feeling...

--------------------

I'm not sure why they put in the part about me cooking and watching Bulgarian TV. I think it's because Bulgarians are not accustomed to seeing people my age living by themselves, much less supporting themselves alone. Anyway, that's the impression people have of me here apparently...

In the same newspaper, a project that I am helping with is described, and I will get to that in the next blog post...

Practical...

It’s been a little while since my last post, which I feel kind of bad about since much has happened in between then and now, and especially since I left the last post with a kind of negative note. I figured I’d get back into the swing of things by showing a bit of what I’ve been doing in my work to provide a kind of contrast to the rote memorization/copy method that I think is doing damage here.

A girl doing chetichki (Note that the characters in the bottom right corner of the book are NOT actually letters)

As I’ve said before, I have a number of groups focused on developing basic skills for the children at the orphanage. I focus most on math and literacy (a fact recently covered in the local newspaper, but I will get to that another time). In these groups I have tried to provide a different method of learning from which the kids are normally exposed. In this way, my goal has been to get illiterate kids up to speed as quickly as possible so that they don’t fall further behind in their classes. In a couple of my groups, this has meant starting by teaching the alphabet to children who are as far as 5th grade. I have since moved on with these kids to associate sounds with letters, and to string these sounds into words. That most basic of reading groups is now able to understand somewhat complicated words, and we are currently working on constructing our own words.

The key here, rather than to have the kids write letters over and over again, to have the children make associations with the letters and how they fit into the grand scheme of things. Copying the alphabet may create amazing penmanship, but it does little to show the children how to use those letters practically. Likewise, memorizing the alphabet and being able to recite it upon command (while a vital skill) does little to show how those letters can be arranged in different ways to create words.


With my special needs kids, I have been emphasizing the sounds of the letters as well, and in some instances the kids can begin picking up on words that start with the same sounds. It’s not much right now but it’s a start, especially considering that their conversational skills are still not their strong point…


Recently I have noticed that a tutor has been reinforcing the sounds of the letters rather than having the kids copy the letters over and over, and is giving many of the kids one on one attention. While this may seem pretty basic to those of us who were lucky enough to have gone through a child-focused educational system, this has been a breath of fresh air for me here. It shows that there is at least a desire to have the kids learn how to practically apply the lessons they learn rather than just have it make it look like they can.



I have heard from some coworkers that there are now some after-school groups for reading and other basic topics that are open for the kids. This blew my mind when I first heard it. I was so excited to see that the kids are being given attention in smaller groups like they need and deserve. I was even more excited to see that the teachers are actually willing to spend the extra time with the kids (something that I have rarely seen in my year and a half here). Education is not simply a 9-5 profession but a desire and a need to ensure the success of the next generation. This isn't a scientific observation, but I'm willing to wager that the success of a class is directly proportional to the amount of support given by its teachers and care providers. I know that there is a huge potential here amongst the kids in Bulgaria that's just now starting to be tapped. It's exciting to me that the child care professionals in this country are realizing this. And I’m so glad I can be a part (however small) of that ever-important realization…

Until next time…

follow-up...

This is an article from today's Novinite (national Bulgarian news) that I thought tied in very well with my last blog post.

50% of Bulgaria High School Graduates Said to Be ‘Illiterate’

Some 50% of Bulgarian high school graduates are illiterate in the sense that they don’t know basic spelling and grammar rules.

This is according to Evelina Gecheva, a manager of “Akademika”, a Bulgarian online education portal.

Gecheva bases her claims on information from professors grading university entrance exams, and other sources. In her words, it is unclear how many of the young people in Bulgaria are illiterate since there are no formal criteria for “literacy”. She believes this collapse in Bulgarian education would require the aid of the state and the whole society to be overcome.

In the fall of 2009, Akademika started an initiative entitled “Be Literate”. As part of it, a number of university and high school experts have made it clear the high school programs in Bulgarian language and literature must be restructured, and new Bulgarian language textbooks need to drafted as they are filled with foreign and incomprehensible words.

http://www.novinite.com/view_news.php?id=110264

Chetichki

This blog post has taken me about a year to gather into anything worth writing, mostly because I’ve been trying to understand the reasoning behind it for approximately that long. I’m still not too sure I understand it fully, and this post might come off as sounding very critical and/or negative. However, I feel like it’s something very important – maybe one of the most important aspects of the education system here in Bulgaria – and I think it says a lot about my work here.

When I arrived here in Preslav, I had no idea what I would be doing and only a vague sense of who I would be working with. I had some ideas, but didn’t really know how to implement them. In fact, I spent a good part of my first 6 months just feeling out the situation here and trying to understand what was happening around me. I had started some groups, mostly revolving around English, since that’s all I could really do at the time, and a math group. I had some art and sports going as well. However, there was something odd happening and I couldn’t really put my finger on it. Most of my kids were way behind in classes, yet could pretend like they were working perfectly. They would fill pages and pages of notebooks with homework that didn’t mean anything. A typical homework help session would involve me walking around the room as several children copied words from a textbook, or pretended to write notes, roughly looking like this: “alguprRDH dahduDHNNn. ..dhgaBBkd, LHDabfnk.” As you might imagine, this was somewhat alarming to me.

But it wasn’t the fact that they weren’t writing anything meaningful that was alarming to me. It wasn’t the fact that they didn’t know how to read, and it wasn’t the fact that the children didn’t know anything was wrong. Only now do I realize what was causing the sick feeling in my stomach. The supervisors, the tutors, the teachers… all of the child care workers were actively encouraging it. I slowly realized the system was not to teach children how to write, just how to make it look like they were writing.

I would ask the children what it was they were writing, and some would shrug their shoulders, some kids pointed to a random word in the textbook, and some would just flat out lie and say they were writing something that wasn’t even remotely related to anything. One child had filled a page up with nothing but his name, beautifully written in perfect cursive script, all the instances of which blurred together and connecting as if it were one long, flowing penmanship exercise.

And now I know that basically, it was.

This year, I have a somewhat deeper understanding of the situation, since I have observed the youngest kids start first grade at the beginning of the year, and have been tracking what they are up to. What I found just flat out astounded me. I had known for some time that the children here don’t learn how to read or write until they reach first grade. It had been frustrating to me to be told that I couldn’t teach the kids at the preschool some basic reading skills because of “the system” in place (I have since gone ahead and done it anyway). It wouldn’t have been as big a deal if I didn’t know the method.

In the first grade, starting about the 3rd week or so, the children start a process called “Chetichki,” roughly translated to “little readings” or something of the sort. Chetichki consist of different patterns of lines and circles, mostly meaningless, that the children are to copy over and over again until they have perfectly recreated the original pattern. The theory behind this method is to prepare the children to learn how to write actual letters and to write in nice cursive script almost immediately. I have 6 first graders that I work with in the orphanage, and all of them spent most of their homework time painstakingly copying these chetichki. If one was wrong or out of place, they would have to start over and do the pattern again. Mostly, the patterns looked very little like letters. Why the children don't skip this altogether and start by learning how to write the actual letters has just recently become clear to me. The system has been created based on appearance instead of substance.

Eventually, the children do start learning the letters of the Cyrillic alphabet. However, the method stays the same. The children are assigned pages and pages of perfect Cyrillic writing, and in the end they have something that you could hang on a wall, but nothing that has actually gotten into their minds. No development has taken place, just copying. When I ask the children what letter they have written, or what sound it makes, they mostly cannot give the correct answer.

There is a huge illiteracy problem in the orphanage. I have spent the better part of my time there teaching several children how to read their own language. In the beginning I discarded all pretentions of teaching little kids English, or catching them up in literature, or even helping as a tutor. Mostly, I have been teaching the very basics of reading and math. And what is amazing to me is that in almost every circumstance, every kid in these groups has been able to write perfectly. If this was a penmanship competition, I’m sure that one of my kids would take first place. Unfortunately it isn’t, and having perfect handwriting doesn’t mean anything if you can’t understand what it says. It seems that the best way to become literate through this system is to either pick it up the very first time before the teacher moves on to the next lesson or to have constant parental reinforcement outside of school to supplement the lessons. Often, the children at the orphanage are not afforded either opportunity. The children who do actually learn how to write are discouraged from doing so freely and creatively because they might make a mistake. Great work might be rejected because it doesn't look good.

Yet this method is perfect for the schools here. It allows them to grant very high grades to children for little work or little absorption. It allows schools to keep the same number of children in each grade so that they are granted the same amount of funding. It’s why there are 5th graders who can’t read the word “Az” (me), or who can’t identify the letter H (Cyrillic n). It’s why kids can copy pages of math tables and not be able to count to 5 properly. It’s why the achievement gap in Bulgaria is as huge as it is. Because in many instances the objective is to make it look like the kids are achieving rather than actually making sure they are.

Overall, during my time here I have realized that the real challenges in this country lie in where its leaders have placed its priorities. There’s no lack of resources, but they are going to the wrong places. There’s no lack of teaching methods, it’s that the methods aren’t working. The children leave school with the appearance of a vast library of knowledge, but no practical way to apply it. There is no shortage of teachers, but there is a shortage of passion to teach. It’s why when I ask my kids what they dream of being when they grow up, nobody says the President of Bulgaria. Almost everyone answers a taxi driver or a waitress.

It sounds dumb, but everything starts in the beginning. If the priority is to teach and have the children absorb and develop, the child will be successful. Literacy and passion for learning emerge and flourish at a young age. If the priority is to make it look like the child is working - the emphasis on appearance rather than achievement - the system has failed before it even gets off the ground.

Until next time…

Svinski Grip!

In case you haven't heard, the whole world is ducking under cover from the swine flu. Schools everywhere are closing, and people all over are, in general, losing their minds. In Bulgaria, as always, things are the same but different. Schools everywhere are closing, people are freaking out, but instead of complaining about the lack of vaccines (or whether vaccines should be administered, don't even get me started), people here deal with it in a bit of a different way. Almost everyone I know has holed themselves up in their house or little cement block room, refusing to come out until the threat has passed. The usual way the flu (or "grip" in Bulgarian... awesome) is dealt with is a good dose of isolation and by hurling jokes at it. In fact one tv station just called it "pianski grip" (drunken flu). That'll get 'em!

Meanwhile, the sheer numbers of people coming down with flu is staggering. The ministry of health has declared several regions within the amount needed to declare an epidemic. The others are under a "wide circulation of the virus" (and God knows what that means). As a result, many schools (including the ones in Preslav) have been shut down, including the preschool I work at, under the amazing title of "swine flu vacation." These closures are due to a rule that states schools have to close if 30% of the students don't show up. In addition, hospitals are turning away cases because they can't handle them all. At the orphanage, special rules have been put in place: can't have large gatherings of kids in one space, children should be confined to their rooms, staff is recommended to wear paper masks. This has put a little bit of a dent in the range of activities that I can do there, but we're still hanging in there. Tomorrow we'll be rebooting the life skills classes for the older kids, and since the kids can't do much else, we should actually have a good turnout (gotta look on the bright side).

Speaking of the bright side (and getting away from the grip), Halloween this year was a huuuge success... well at least in comparison to last year's, which involved bobbing for apples and costume wearing, neither of which quite went as planned. This year, the kids learned to say the phrase trick or treat in exchange for candy, and instead of costumes we did scary faces and masks. What came after was the true success though I think. After coming in possession of quite a few toothbrushes and toothpaste, I thought a bit of an educational activity could be thrown in there. The kids learned the proper way to brush their teeth, when and how, and they were actually into it! This was fantastic since the hygeine situation at the dom is for the most part appalling. It was one of those moments that made me feel really happy about what I'm doing right now. The kids are even saving the brushes!

Another high spot was the annual Halloween party in Veliko Turnovo. I went as Flo Rida, the much celebrated rapper from my much celebrated home state. I even had my own bling made from cardboard and tinfoil, which didn't quite come across, but still... Other highlights included the entire Ghostbusters squad, David the Gnome, and the cast of Mad Men. Needless to say it was a memorable time, and, to make things better, allowed many of us to avoid the grip explosion in our towns (not a big deal in Turnovo).

For now, I'll be doing what many others are doing - hiding out when I can, and trying to avoid coming down with this ridiculous virus. On the plus side, in my recollection I have never had the flu before, and I'm not planning on getting it now...

Until next time...