Chestita Baba Marta

With the arrival March, the Bulgarians symbolically ring in the arrival of the Spring season with the uniquely Bulgarian holiday called Baba Marta. Baba Marta, literally "grandmother March," is the personification of the first month of Spring. She is an old lady, who brings flowers and sunshine when she is happy, or rain and cold wind when cranky.

The first day of March also brings with it the exchange of martenitsi - red and white bracelets given to represent the new life and purity that spring will carry with it. Tradition holds that you have to wear these bracelets until you see a flowering tree. At that time you take off the martenitsi and tie them to the tree. This is one of the only things I can think of that only exists in Bulgaria.

Martenitsis tied to a flowering tree

Here in Preslav, Baba Marta must still be pretty angry, since we've been having rain recently, with more cold temperatures and rain lingering in the forecast for a while longer. However, when she showed up at the preschool she seemed pretty happy. On second thought that wasn't the real Baba Marta, but a staff member dressed up to give martenitsis to the kids. Songs were sung and games were played to celebrate the arrival of Spring. At the orphanage, more martenitsis were distributed from various groups around town. Most of the children's wrists cannot be seen under the sheer number of them all. As for myself, I got a few from people around town, including from the preschool staff and from the other members of my horo class.

I'll be wearing my martenitsis until I see that first bud on a tree around town. Although I'm not particularly superstitious, I'm secretly hoping this will lend success to my fitness room project...

Until next time...

East to Istanbul

So after less than a day of rest in my site after Christmas, I was back on the move – this time for a week long trip down into Turkey to the gigantic and ancient city of Istanbul (or Constantinople… however you prefer…).

The change was apparent as soon as we stepped off the bus as we tried to negotiate a decent cab fare – the first in a long series of haggling that would become one of the themes of the trip throughout the week. After a relaxing first night walking around the area of our hostel and settling down with a hooka, we got up and started to tackle the city. And when I say tackle the city I mean wander around aimlessly, stumbling on interesting things along the way. I usually prefer to explore cities by getting lost in them…

The first day we took a lot of pictures in the main square, which features 2 incredible buildings right across from each other…

On the left side stands the Blue Mosque – the crowning achievement of Sultan Ahmet and built by the same architects (apparently) that designed the Taj Mahal (a dubious claim, but interesting nonetheless). As you get closer and closer to the building, the scale becomes more and more apparent, despite the delicate appearance of its domes and minarets. The Blue Mosque is fully functional, and calls to prayer blast from the minarets 5 times a day – long drawn out wails that can be heard throughout the city. Inside, the floor is divided into two halves – one side for worshippers, and the others for those just passing through. Both sides seem to offer an equally impressive view of the interior of the mosque, which is decked from floor to ceiling in individually hand painted blue tiles, giving the building its nickname.

On the right side of the square is the gigantic Hagia Sophia (pronounced Ayasofia, and translated as “Holy Wisdom”) historically one of the most important buildings of Christianity before it was sacked and turned into a mosque by the Ottomans. Built over 1500 years ago when the city was the capital of the Roman Empire, the structure has been added on to over the years, allowing a visitor to peel back layer after layer of history. Standing in the great hall is a breathtaking experience, as one looks up into what was once the largest dome in the world until St. Peter’s was built about 1000 years later. The contrast on the inside is unmistakably apparent, as historians have started to uncover the early Christian frescoes and mosaics that adorned the ceiling and walls. Right next to these ancient paintings lie Islamic decorations and references to Mecca. In this way, standing in the Hagia Sophia not only serves as a reminder of so many great eras of human history, but also serves as a connection between two major world religions (often at odds with each other) – a very humbling experience indeed.

Also located on a far corner of the square is the entrance to the Basilica Cistern, a magical place of water underneath the streets of Istanbul. The huge room once served as the city’s water supply and dates back to the Roman times. This is evident in the 400 columns that support the arched ceiling of the chamber, which feature all 3 major Roman architectural styles – Doric, Ionic, Corinthian. Two of the columns stem from images of Medusa, turned upside down and sideways in order to negate the evil gaze. This is apparently to protect the place from harm. Apparently they have done a good job, as it’s still standing despite the chamber’s extremely fragile appearance. Recent renovations have placed a beautiful lighting system throughout the cistern, creating a mystical atmosphere as you walk around this amazing and ancient place.

The second day brought us to the famous Grand Bazaar, a neverending maze of corridors and alleys that spans an entire district of the city, all lined with countless vendors selling everything from scarves to carpets to drums. Of course, each one claims to have the best goods in the whole city, and of course this means that they want you to pay a premium for it. But then the fun starts… “For you my friend I give special price," and the haggling begins. Every interaction with the vendors is an intricate dance – wavering between too high and too low, until you land somewhere in the middle. I think I fared pretty well for myself, buying a Turkish drum and a scarf for myself.

The madness didn’t end there, however. We also made a stop at the Spice Market, which was even crazier than the Grand Bazaar in its vendors’ pleas for business and haggling. Smells ranging from the sweet to the pungent bombard you on all sides, as you walk down the great hall lined with mounds of herbs, tea, and Turkish delight. Regardless of the massive crowd, I made it out of there with a pretty good sampling of spices.

There were relaxing parts too, such as a stroll along the sea, and our exploration of the old Topkapi Palace. The confines of the palace offer the best views of the city and of the Bosphorus Strait, which divides European Turkey from its Asian side.

Upon leaving Istanbul, I realized that just one visit to this place is not nearly enough to absorb all that this place has to offer. The sheer size of the city alone (ten million… Bulgaria, by comparison, has a total of 7 million people in the whole country) is enough to make one realize that there are probably countless treasures hidden throughout… places that will never make it onto any map or into any guidebook. Our group found one such place, and its friendly owner treated us to an incredible New years experience... Dancing horo together with strangers and friends alike under the fireworks as the whole city rang in New Years is something that I will never forget.

The whole trip left a good taste in my mouth, and I definitely want to return not only to Istanbul, but also deeper into Turkey, a beautiful place at once Middle Eastern and European, and serving as the perfect blend of both.

Until next time…

Peace Corps presents Christmas Vacation

Hey all… It’s been a little while since my last post, but it’s also been a little while since I’ve been home to even write one. I just returned from an epic vacation that I’m still kind of reeling from. This was my longest break yet, and well deserved if I might say so myself.

My final day in Preslav was spent running a talent show and game night for the children of the town in which I, once again, was somehow coaxed into dressing up as Diado Koleda/Santa Claus. Early the next morning I was off to the mountains far far away from my site. It took an overnight train and then an additional 5 hour bus ride, and then another 30 minute cab ride to reach the place, but the journey was worth it. We got in at night, so we couldn’t really see how beautiful the place was until we woke up the next morning. However, the amazing food that kept coming was as good a sight as any. Plus the company was fantastic. We basically relaxed by the fire, played games, watched movies, and sang songs the whole time. Basically a very laid back time, which was just what I needed.

This is the view I was greeted with out the window next to my bed when I woke up...


Delchevo is a small village high up in the mountains near the Greek border, looking down upon the regional center of Gotse Delchev. The place has been preserved as an ethnographic site, sealing its appearance as it might have looked 100 years ago. Cars cannot access most areas of the town, and all the houses are located along tiny cobblestone roads and old goat paths. In fact, goats freely wander the town, and old ladies with wispy beards talk about them to you as you wander.


The town seems to be in an interesting state of transition as many of the old houses are converted into fully renovated guesthouses and apartments. We stayed in one of these guesthouses, and it felt nicer than a lot of hotels I’ve stayed in. Right next door was a ramshackle barn that could have been over a hundred years old.

The main attraction, however, was Christmas dinner, made by none other than 2 of my fellow group members. A gigantic spread of every carb imaginable was presented to us, and it was amazing – baked ziti, cheesy potatoes with sausage, broccoli and rice, not to mention the dozens of desserts contributed by everyone. White elephant gift exchange was played, like last year, and I ended up with an amazing book, which I was pretty happy about and have been working on over the past couple weeks.

Alas, there was no snow, but there was no complaining from this Florida boy. The whole couple of days seemed Christmasy enough for me, spending time with good friends in a great place. But the vacation was not over just yet – I headed back to my site, only to turn back again a day later on an even longer trip down to Istanbul, which was a trip that I will not soon forget… and the topic of the next blog post…

Rocked Like a Hurricane

The beginning of July brought with it my first actual vacation and the opportunity to rock out with several of the 80s’ best washed-up rock stars in the beach town of Kavarna, a 2 hour bus ride away in the northeastern corner of Bulgaria on the Black Sea.

My days were spent relaxing on the surprisingly respectable stretch of sand just outside of town, working on transforming my skin to any color other than pure, pasty white. I eventually succeeded in getting a nice layer of freckles, but it was during the nights in Kavarna that the real excitement came. Walking the road to the local stadium was a journey into a completely different world – a world covered in leather and long, greasy hair, a world in which the blast of motorcycle engines continuously interrupted any attempt for conversation, and where the food pyramid is completely comprised of sausage and French fries.

Inside the stadium, the crowds gathered for three nights of pure, unadulterated rock. The first night brought us the sweet serenades of Vince Neil and his Motley Crue singing such unforgettable classics as “Girls Girls Girls” and “Dr. Feelgood” (and didn’t they do that one song “Shout at the Devil?” Oh yeah there it goes…). It also brought us a drunk Tommy Lee attempting to tell the entire population of Bulgaria that he loves them, with hilarious consequences. The self-titled “Saints of Los Angeles” cranked up the volume right from the start and didn’t let up, save for one lighter-raising (cellphone raising?) power ballad. Nice Job.






The second night brought legendary group The Scorpions, whose concert, I must say, has entered my pantheon of favorite ever. Even though I had previously only known one of their songs (the incredible “Rock You Like a Hurricane”), the sheer energy present in the crowd made it worth it. This was one of those times in which the adage “They’re huge in Europe” is certainly true. Bulgarian flags waved, people chanted and sang along to songs we Americans had never heard, and we were informed by the band that they singlehandedly ended the Cold War with one of their songs (“Winds of Change”). This is to say nothing about the opening band, Blind Guardian, whose songs recounted epic Viking battles and the fight for Middle Earth. The whole experience added up to a night I will never forget.

Dream Theater – incredibly pretentious but nonetheless talented prog-rockers – brought in the 4th of July weekend with a bang. Even though it was a pretty rainy day, we were able to enjoy some appropriately American KFC and Subway, a homemade cherry pie, and a cake in the shape of an American flag. The presence of good food and good friends came together perfectly (as they so often do) to cap a weekend that will live on in my memory as one of the best and most memorable (if not at times incredibly bizarre) experiences of my time here in Bulgaria.

Until next time...

Town Holiday!

Sunday was a big day in my town and around Bulgaria - the Day of Saints Cyril and Methodius, creators of the Cyrillic Alphabet. Born in Thessaloniki, Cyril and Methodius came to Bulgaria as missionaries and created the alphabet as a way to introduce Christianity to the Slavic people. To do this they needed a written language that reflected the different sounds of the Slavic languages of the time. Using some Greek letters, and also inventing some new letters they came up with the Glagolitic alphabet, which eventually transformed into the Cyrillic that many countries use today.


When Preslav was the capital of Bulgaria during its Golden Age, there was a great literary school that contributed much of the great historical literature of the country. Without Cyril and Methodius, much of the expansion that Bulgaria experienced probably never would have happened. Since this alphabet directly contributed so much to the development of Veliki Preslav (and to Bulgaria for that matter), the town celebrates it as its town holiday.

Today, the festival is somewhat removed from celebrating the contributions of Cyril and Methodius, and more an excuse to have a carnival come into town. The day kicked off in the center with a short presentation by the mayor, and a wreath-laying at the statue of Czar Simeon (the king of Bulgaria when Preslav was the capital and throughout its Golden Age). After that various groups put on singing and dancing presentations for about another hour.


When the presentation was over, it was off to the carnival, conveniently set up next to the pazar up the street. This was one of the most ridiculous, yet fun times I’ve had in town so far. Firstly, the weekly pazar (outdoor market) was expanded and included merchants from all around the region, and even some from some other cities selling everything you could imagine from clothes, to random gadgets, to chalga. Next to the market, crammed into a tiny square, were several rides that can only be described as deathtraps, some rip-off games, and several ponichki stands.

A word about ponichki: I think the nearest approximation would be little donuts, but to call them just "little donuts" would be a crime. These Bulgarian versions are fried not only in hot oil, but also a mixture of dreams, puppy kisses, and children's laughter, then drizzled with chocolate sauce and served directly to you fresh and warm in a little basket with a tiny fork. Pretty much the best and worst food ever created…

A little ways further up the road towards the school and the orphanage was located a giant inflatable slide and a dirt buggy track. Actually "track" is probably a bit of an exaggeration (more like a tiny circle of anti-fun and dust) but the allure of it brought the kids in anyway. I was almost snared as well, but luckily those tricky Peace Corps rules saved me from certain doom (PC rule 537: No driving anything ever. Sometimes donkey carts, maybe).

To my surprise, the children from the orphanage were allowed free rides on many of the attractions present, which made for a great weekend for them. As for me, I just had a good time hanging out and watching the people pass by on what was undoubtedly the most crowded I have ever seen my town. It seemed that most of the people from town were there, and for the first time that I can remember, the town actually felt as big as people tell me it is.

Until next time…

Velikden

After painting eggs, I was reminded by my coworkers to go to the center for the big Velikden (Easter - literally "Great Day") midnight mass, and that this was something I shouldn’t miss. Not wanting to pass up a good look at another tradition, I said I’d be there. At about 11pm my sitemate and I headed down to the center where the big church in town is. People were slowly congregating in and around the church, and others were just hanging out at the café nearby. Seemed just like a normal night, maybe with just a few more people.

At 11:30, the church bells started ringing as a call that the service was about to start. Everyone filed into the little church, and the priest started singing his prayers. Incense was lit while the curtain hiding the altar was moved away. At that moment, a small path was made through the middle of the church. In Bulgarian churches there are often no chairs, and so there were a ton of people in there. The priest then made his way down this makeshift aisle with a giant bundle of candles. I recognized this tradition as being similar to the tradition of the Paschal candle in Western liturgy. This orthodox one was a bit different: 3 candles bundled together, creating one large flame at the top - a powerful symbol for sure. The deacon also carried a large single red candle as he led the procession.

As the priest made his way down the aisle, people from all around started reaching over to light their own candles from the paschal candle. Since I was on the aisle I reached out and lit a candle as the priest sang something in Old Bulgarian. As the priest reached the door, the aisle that had formed quickly collapsed and people made their way outside. There, it seemed as though the entire town had gathered around the church, and everyone had a candle and was lighting it from the original. After about 10 minutes, the entire center was glowing with candlelight.

The priest carried on his liturgy, as old babas responded by singing “Gospodin pomilo” and “Amin” (I think “Lord merciful” and “amen” respectively). Then the singing stopped and the priest shouted to the crowd “Isus Vozkresus” (Jesus is risen) to the clanging of the church bells. I don’t know if it was the hundreds of candles around or what, but there was something very magical in that moment. For a couple of minutes at least, it seemed that everyone in town was content. Even the stern, usually unsmiling babas had a look of joy. It was one of those moments during my service here in BG that I will never forget.

The priests wrapping up the service outside:

Ring the bells - it's officially Velikden:

But this wasn’t the end, as it would have been after a service back in the States. In Bulgaria it seems as though there’s always something during each holiday that will grant you health and luck for the year and absolve you of your sins. In this case, the gathered crowd had to make 3 laps around the outside of the church while keeping their candles lit. If successful, you will be washed of your sins and have a healthy year. Some people even had strategies to prevent their candle from going out in the night breeze. I saw a lot of yogurt containers being made into makeshift shields to block out the wind. This was serious business.

As for me, I took my regular little candle and just made the laps bez extra protection. When a breeze picked up I moved my hand over the flame and that seemed to work just fine. I made my way around the church three times along with the rest of the crowd (it seemed as though most people were successful). Everyone then placed what was left of their candles in the gardens around the church to burn out.

I think a pretty large group went to the discotek right after - a fitting activity to do with one's newly renewed sanctity. As for myself, I returned home and fell asleep pretty quickly. The next day I woke up and ate my first taste of Kozunak. This is pretty much a giant muffin filled with jelly that is traditional to eat on Easter, along with the eggs. I got three of them - one from the awesome Yasli staff, one from my landlord, and another from my baba next door. Needless to say, it was delicious and prepared me for a week full of more Easter festivities.

Until next time...

Boyadisvane na Yaitsa

The Easter season is here, and the people around town have been reminding me that it might be the biggest holiday in Bulgaria. I don’t deny that – there is a ton of stuff going on around Preslav, and will continue for a while after this. Today we kicked off the festivities by painting Easter eggs at the orphanage.

Painting eggs is pretty popular in the States. Here in Bulgaria the tradition of using eggs as an Easter symbol is taken to a whole new level. Starting on Easter and continuing for a week after, I am told that there will be “egg wars” in which two boiled and painted eggs are knocked together, and the winner is the egg that doesn’t break. I love this country.

Before....


So there's a tradition here in Bulgaria during the egg painting. After the first red egg is done, someone takes it and draws a cross on everyone's forehead with the red paint. I can now check "Have a hot egg dragged across my forehead" off the list of things I have to do in my life.

The kids were pretty into it. (Also, note the shirt that says "Police American Football" on it... It's the little things here that I love the most).

One of my awesome coworkers getting into the mix:

Out to dry...

So now I am officially ready for egg wars... Tonight there is a sort of midnight mass at the Church in town , and a big traditional celebration there. Tomorrow I’ll let you know how that goes…

Chestita Nova Godina

Happy New Year!

Here in Bulgaria, New Year’s is by far the most popular and festive of the days in the holiday season. Even all the symbols that are usually associated with Christmas, like snowmen, Christmas trees, and bells have a big “ЧНГ 2009!” slapped over them. It’s most likely a holdover from Communist times, when religious expression was discouraged. Even so, it makes for a pretty awesome celebration these days…

I spent most of my time on New Year’s Eve at the orphanage, where I played games inside and watched a movie with the younger kids until their dinner time. The kids were treated with a “special meal” (special in the sense that it was food that most people would consider a normal meal, so a big deal for the kids), consisting of kyuftes (spiced sausage patties), chicken, and a traditional yogurt and cucumber salad, all of which they were excited about and scarfed down in no time.

After dinner with the younger kids, it was time to go upstairs for the older kids’ celebration. They had already eaten their big meal, and the party was underway, with loud chalga music blasting throughout the halls. There was kyuchek (Roma dance that is basically like belly dancing mixed with pelvic thrusting) and horo (traditional Balkan circle dance) for hours.

Then the big moment came – the clock struck midnight and the real madness began. When I say the new year started with a bang, I don’t mean in the cliché metaphorical sense. No… I mean it was a battleground out in the streets with kids, and sometimes their parents, tossing firecrackers at each other and then screaming like mad to get out of the way. There was a massive fireworks display in the center, much more than I expected from this sleepy town of 6000ish. I’m pretty sure that the smell of gunpowder will hang in the air at least until next new year.

Today, actual New Year’s Day, I woke up to the sounds of even more firecrackers and cheering outside the window. Then a stream of kids with what can only be described as “elaborately decorated sticks” started showing up at my door. This tradition is much like Trick-or-Treating in the States, in that kids show up and you give them a small gift or some candy or something. It’s different in that instead of dressing up in costumes to do this, they hit you with a stick and then demand that you give them something. In return, they give you good luck wishes for the new year. A good time for everyone involved!

Next week it’s “back to the grind” and I’ll have my full schedule once again (preschool in the morning, dom in the afternoon, and horo class or tutoring or band practice at night). School starts back up on the 5th, and all the kids that left the orphanage for the holiday season will be back. I’ll be starting my groups back up, and probably starting back at square one because of the long break. No big deal… It’s the season for starting over anyways. Everyone gets a clean slate. Everyone gets another chance.

Честита нова година! Много здрав и късмет и да дойдат много повече весели години!

Until next time…

A Very Merry PC Christmas Special

In the days leading up to Christmas, I was feeling pretty physically drained and emotionally burned out from an oh-so-fun combination of a full schedule at work and some overall frustrating developments around town among other things. It had been a rough week for me, and it was time for a break. I didn’t think I would be able to make it out to the Christmas get together, but luckily my schedule opened up and I was able to head out.

I took the night train to Pleven once again. Even though I was on time, and the train was well heated as snow fell on the tracks outside, I had to stand for the entire 3.5 hour journey since it was packed, proving once again to me that there is no such thing as a pleasant train ride in Bulgaria. I did however get to eat at the good Chinese place in Shumen before heading out, so all was not lost…

I got to my friend’s place at 8 in the morning on Christmas Eve, where I promptly collapsed and napped for a few hours while waiting for some of the other friends to arrive. The highlights of the day were trying to piece together a Norman Rockwell puzzle and drinking hot chocolate over some good conversation.

This was not the main event, however. We were treated to a rented out mehana (traditional BG restaurant) courtesy of my friend’s coworkers. The salads were good, and the liver… not so much, but it was eaten with happiness anyway. We were visited by carolers dressed in traditional Bulgarian clothes (and our friend who hosted the get together joined in on the action). Next up was the white elephant gift exchange, in which I got a jar of peanut butter, which I'm pretty excited about.

Christmas was spent in a more subdued manner, with good people and good conversation, and copious amounts of hot chocolate while inside watching the snow outside. It turned out to be a white Christmas after all, with huge flakes that piled up quickly. The snow buried Knezha under a gorgeous sparkling blanket throughout the course of the day that covered the rough patch I’d been going through with a cold clean beauty that was relaxing and refreshing.

Of course, there were other Christmas highlights: We played football in the snow, in which Leslie made a Sportscenter worthy miracle catch that will probably live on in history as one of the greatest plays ever… Friends cooked up a nice meal together which was enjoyed by all… Getting to talk to the family back in the States through the wonderful creation that is Skype... Having a dance party that can only be described as “American…” However, the best part about the time there was the friendship – enjoying the connection with my other group members that I’ve described before as a big hilarious dysfunctional family, which is true, but they’re also some of the best people I’ve ever spent time with… Awww. (Thanks guys haha)

I got back into Preslav and into my now very frigid apartment feeling energized and ready to get back into the action, and I’ll be spending New Years at the orphanage with the kids, which should be both interesting and really fun. I’ll be sure to keep you all in the loop about the coming events, and I also have some random other posts coming up as well.

Until next time…

Koledni Kuponi

It's been a busy week here in Preslav. People are gearing up for Koleda (Christmas), and that comes with many, many kuponi (parties). I've had the pleasure of going to many of these, and want to share some of that Bulgarian Christmas magic with you all.

The week started with the annual Christmas concert at the obshtina (municipality), featuring multitudes of kindergarteners forgetting the words to techno versions of Bulgarian Christmas carols. I didn't think it was possible (think about this: Traditional Bulgarian Christmas carols remixed into techno and sung by Chalga stars, partially in English, then having little kids sing and dance to these crazy tunes while wearing traditional costumes) but Bulgaria proves me wrong again.


My band made a rare appearance and performed a song at the concert, wowing everyone with their skills. When I say “my band,” I’m talking about the rock band that my language tutor is in, and I go to their practices every once in a while since they’re right after my tutoring sessions. They’re called “Chernoriztsite” (the Black Shirts), and they have a wide repertoire of Bulgarian rock covers, and as well as English renditions of “I Want to Break Free” and “Hot Stuff.” I’ll try to record some of their stuff and will post it later.


While at the concert I met one of the nicest people I’ve ever seen here. His name is Joe and he comes from Tanzania. He’s lived here for 15 years now, and has a Bulgarian wife and 2 kids. He invited me over for tea and while there we talked (in English!) about life here in Bulgaria. It was one of the best times I’ve had so far in Preslav, and I can tell that we’re going to have a great friendship over the next couple of years.

The next party in the lineup this week was the orphanage Christmas party. Since many of the children at the orphanage go home for holidays, we had the big celebration this week. I feel I need to elaborate a bit more on this situation. Here in Bulgaria, many of the children at the orphanages aren’t “orphans” the way we would consider them to be (that is, without parents). Instead, many times children will be sent here if their parents cannot afford to raise them, but are still permitted to go back at certain times of the year, such as during holidays or vacations from school.

Anyway, the party was a big success, and even the staff was really into it. Pretty much from the day I got here the kids told me “You’re going to be Diado Koleda (Santa).” I didn’t know how to take this at first since I’m pretty sure I don’t have the credentials for the job. The direct translation of Diado Koleda is Grandpa Christmas, and I’m nowhere close to being a grandfather, I’m not 300+ pounds, and I don’t have a white beard. Still I donned the red suit, strapped on the beard and gave my jolliest ho ho ho. It was one of the most ridiculous things I’ve done so far here, but hey the kids loved it, so I guess I did something right.

The kids spent the rest of the day tearing into the chocolates they were given, and playing around with the little toys they got, as well as proudly wearing the scarves sent over from a previous volunteer in the States.

But that’s not the end of the festivities… Tomorrow I have a staff party at the nicest of the 3 restaurants we have here in town, where I’ll break out my best horo dancing, for which I’ve been taking a class in my free time. Horo is the traditional Balkan dance in which everyone makes a circle and does a pattern of moves while going around the circle. These can be really easy (like just kicking your foot a couple of times) to really elaborate patterns involving a lot of hopping, spinning and other craziness. That’ll be another post for sure. I seem to be building up a lot of topics to post about later, but I think they’re all interesting and worth spending a separate post on when I get the time and things slow down a bit (which will be after New Years probably).

Also on the agenda is the Yasli Christmas party, for which I’ve been commissioned to be the videographer. The kids have been practicing a couple of Christmas songs, most of which they still don’t know, but it’s really cute to see them try. Pictures to come.

On actual Christmas I’ll be traveling across the country to be with a bunch of friends, so that will definitely be fun, and I’ll be spending New Years here in Preslav (which seems to be a bigger deal than Christmas here in BG) with the kids.

Until next time…

Veseli Praznitsi!

Happy Holidays!

The Christmas season is in full swing in Preslav! There are flashing colored lights everywhere you look, kids are excited about "Diado Kolada" (Santa Claus), there's a definite winter chill in the air... The only thing missing is a Walmart having a huge sale.

Tonight was the tree-lighting ceremony in the town center, which rain threatened to cancel. Luckily, by the time all the speeches were said and songs were sung, the rain had cleared up, allowing the members of the obshtina to flip the switch on this beauty after all:

Doesn't look like too much here, but it's a real pine tree right off the courtyard in the center, and it's huge. Pretty awesome sight when coming in to town, especially with the other buildings on the center lit up as well (the chitalishte, church, town hall, and obshtina building)...

After the lighting ceremony some huge fireworks were set off right next to the church, pumping everyone up for the series of Christmas events the town will be coordinating...

Apparently they do Christmas big here, with a lot of events announced in the coming month, including a wassail in the town hall, countless concerts from kids and adults alike, and a gigantic banitsa making competition which was really hyped up to me by my sitemate. I love me some banitsa, so I'm looking forward to it (food post coming later).

I've gotten into the spirit myself with some decorations laying around the apartment. I just happened to find a nice little fake Christmas tree which I decorated today in honor of the tree lighting in the center. All that lie underneath right now are a couple of chocolates, but perhaps at some point I'll have some legit gifts haha.

Aside from the tree I have some random garlands strung around, and the most outlandish and ridiculous light I have ever seen (left to me by the previous volunteer) hanging from my terrace. It's star shaped and flashes like a strobe light in different colors. What better way to spread Christmas cheer than to blind any and all who dare gaze upon this amazing decoration?

Until next time...

Thanksgiving Bulgaria Style

Thanksgiving (ден на благодарност - den na blogodarnost - lit. "day of thankfulness") came and went without much fanfare in Veliki Preslav. People here have some idea of what it is after hearing from other volunteers about it, but it gets looked at kind of strangely from their point of view - "Day of Thankfulness? Turkey? football?" It doesn't quite come together the way we see it, which is a day to spend time with the family, and be thankful that we have people to lean on (in my opinion at least).

I didn't really do anything special the actual day of Thanksgiving. In fact, I had to go in to work since we volunteers don't get American holidays off. It was alright though... I baked up a batch of chocolate chip cookies (more like chocolate chunk, since they don't have chocolate chips here... ended up just smashing a few chocolate bars) and handed those out to the staff. I also explained some Thanksgiving traditions and did some art stuff for the kids. They were more interested in the Pilgrims and Indians part than the turkey and family part ("Did the indians kill the people afterward?" No... Yay for movies!). That night I made hashbrowns and eggs haha.

However, over that weekend, I was able to get some real Thanksgiving food and spend some time with friends and enjoy the holiday. Even though we were thousands of miles from home, we managed to come together as a great big dysfunctional family for Thanksgiving. Coming together was a challenge though, starting with a missed train and an overnight ride in an unheated cabin and ending with missing the bus stop and having to walk (more slipping on the ice than walking) back into the town where we were supposed to get out. It all came together eventually - well worth the missteps - and a good time was had by all.

Turkey was brought in from Sofia, potatoes were mashed, cakes and pies were consumed, football was watched. Something was brought by each of the 20 volunteers that were there, making for a legit Thanksgiving meal, and an great time with great friends.

In other news, I started at the preschool yesterday. Well... to call it a preschool is a bit of a stretch. The kids are 2 and 3 years old and completely ridiculous. It should be interesting to see what I can do with them. I'm not really sure why I was assigned to work there, but at least it gives me something to do in the morning... More to come on that later.

Until next time...