Thursday, July 15, 2010

The Macedonia Question

Macedonia is a region that lies roughly west of Bulgaria, north of Greece, east of Albania, and south of Serbia. In 1991, the place declared it's own statehood, and the topic has been subject to endless debate since. The problem arises from the fact that all of these places call the people known as "Macedonians" as members of their own ethnicity:

-Serbia declares Macedonians as Serbs, since Macedonia was one of the parts of the former Yugoslavia during the times of communism. Even today the constitution of Macedonia says that any future reunion of Yugoslavia must include Macedonia.
-Greeks declare that Macedonia is an integral part of the Greek land, having owned it for much of the region's history. They refuse to acknowledge the country as "Macedonia" as this opens the door to Macedonians declaring rights on the Greek portion of Macedonia, which shares the same name but is Greek-speaking. They only recognize the state as the "Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia," and will block any attempts by the Macedonian government to join the EU until the name situation is resolved.
-Albanians declare rights to several areas of Macedonia. For example, the capital of Macedonia, Skopje, was once an Albanian city. Albanians make up one of the largest minorities in the country.
-Finally, Bulgarians officially declare Macedonian people as "ethno-politically disoriented Bulgarians," since the language is so close to Bulgarian, and the 2 nations share much of the same culture and history. Bulgarian nationalists declare that there are "over 2 million Bulgarians trapped abroad," in reference to the population of Macedonia.

All of the nations raise questions as to whether or not Macedonia is a "real country." This has presented a major problem for this country in the middle of a geopolitical crossroads, and is the foundation of the debate known as "the Macedonia Question."

Yet somehow, the Macedonians have clung to the idea that they are a distinct people, and are fiercely proud of their country and the things they have contributed to the world throughout history. Some important figures who hailed from the region are Alexander of Macedon (aka Alexander the Great), Kiril and Metodi (inventors of the Cyrillic alphabet), and more recently Mother Teresa (born in Skopje). Whether or not these people are "Macedonians" is really beside the point. Macedonia declared itself an independent country in 1991, declared Macedonian it's official language, and immediately began the long process of trying to prove its statehood to the world.

I spent my last bit of vacation here in Peace Corps on a quick trip down to the source of all this confusion, and quickly found out that Macedonia is, in fact, a real country. It contains real people and has a real culture, that after mixing together aspects of all the different surrounding nations, becomes something all its own.

We started our trip in the capital city of Skopje, just 5 hours away from Sofia by bus. The city was very walkable and for a capital city, very small and manageable. The main attraction here is the Kale Fortress (which is somewhat redundant, "Kale" is Macedonian for "fortress"), which towers over the Vardar River in the middle of the city. The fortress walls have been restored, and the huge Macedonian flags adorning it's parapets are visible all over town. The view from the fortress is unparalleled, giving the visitor a view of the whole city below it.


The center of town boasts the recently constructed Memorial House of Mother Teresa, built in the style of a traditional home, and then decorated with fanciful murals depicting symbols of peace. Atop this structure stands the Memorial Chapel, a very modern structure devoted to the ideals of Mother Teresa and her quest for world peace. Light streams in everywhere, giving the building a very special feel. The building also houses a museum with relics such as her Bible, various notes, and displays chronicling the life of one of the most famous citizens of Skopje.



Near the center, and across the river lies the Old Town. The way the streets wind around little mosques here reminded me of my visit to Turkey, and indeed the whole place has a more Eastern vibe to it, a very nice change of pace from the largely Eastern European feel of the town. Shopkeepers can be seen outside plying their wares and haggling with customers just as they would in a place like Istanbul. Duner Kebabs and Turkish tea are found readily and abundantly...

The Turkish influence can be felt all over this side of town. Again, Macedonia was once part of another nation - the Turkish Ottoman Empire, which once controlled the majority of the Balkans. However, unlike Bulgaria which seems to have repressed much of its Turkish influence, Macedonia seems to have embraced it (at least a bit), and mosques can be seen all over, dotting the countryside and peeking out in the middle of cities. The cuisine is a bit more Turkish influenced as well.


In the middle of town lies the Old Stone Bridge, one of the oldest structures in town, and still basically in tact after about 500 years. This bridge has seen many owners - the Turks, the Albanians, the Serbs, etc. - and seems to be a symbol of Macedonia itself. The bridge connects the new center to the Old Town and the fortress, and in this way connects all aspects of its history right in the most central part of the city. As the waters of time pass under the bridge, the structure stands, unchanged from empire to empire as a testament to not only the perseverance but also the very identity of the Macedonian people, a people who have taken aspects of each previous culture and have pieced them together to create something all their own.



7 comments:

Xaralambos said...

Dear Greg, unfortunately your article is misleading although you state some true facts. For example, your last sentence states that “[Macedonia] stands out as the sole melting pot in a corner of the world where concepts like purity and nationalism are held in high regard.” This statement is farcical for anyone who has the slightest idea of what is happening in this country right now.

Greg said...

Sorry I should have said that this was my view of the culture. I refer to Macedonia as a melting pot because culturally it is. I'm not saying that Macedonia isn't itself nationalist. Sorry for the confusion. I'll try to fix up the article. Obviously this is a touchy subject.

Anonymous said...

Greg,

As you admit it is a "touchy" subject, it could've been a good idea to reserch the facts, before expresing "views". Some facts below:
During the 580s, Byzantine literature attests to the Slavs raiding Byzantine territories in the region of Macedonia, aided by Avars or Bulgars. Historical records document that in c.680 a group of Bulgars, Slavs and Byzantines led by a Bulgar called Kuber settled in the region of Keramisian plain, centred on the city of Bitola.[16] Presian's reign apparently coincides with the extension of Bulgarian control over the Slavic tribes in and around Macedonia. The Slavic peoples that settled in the region of Macedonia accepted Christianity as their own religion around the 9th century, during the reign of Tsar Boris I of Bulgaria.

In 1014, Emperor Basil II finally defeated the armies of Tsar Samuil of Bulgaria and by 1018 the Byzantines restored control over Macedonia (and all of the Balkans) for the first time since the 600s. However, by the late 12th century, Byzantine decline saw the region contested by various political entities, including a brief Norman occupation in the 1080s.

In the early 13th century, a revived Bulgarian Empire gained control of the region. Plagued by political difficulties the empire did not last and the region came once again under Byzantine control in early 14th century.
Ottoman rule over the region was considered harsh. With the beginning of the Bulgarian National Revival in 18 c. many of the reformers were from this region, including Miladinov Brothers,[18] Rajko Žinzifov, Joakim Krčovski,[19] Kiril Pejčinoviḱ[20] and others. The bishoprics of Skopje, Debar, Bitola, Ohrid, Veles and Strumica voted to join the Bulgarian Exarchate after it was established in 1870.[21]

Several movements whose goals were the establishment of autonomous Macedonia, encompassing the entire region of Macedonia, began to arise in the late 1800s; the earliest of these was the Bulgarian Macedonian-Adrianople Revolutionary Committees, later transformed to SMORO. In 1905 it was renamed as Internal Macedonian-Adrianople Revolutionary Organization (IMARO) and after World War I the organization separated into the Internal Macedonian Revolutionary Organization (IMRO) and the Internal Thracian Revolutionary Organisation (ITRO).

The early organization did not proclaim any ethnic identities; it was officially open to "...uniting all the disgruntled elements in Macedonia and the Adrianople region, regardless of their nationality..."[22] The majority of its members however were Macedonian Bulgarians[23] In 1903, IMRO organised the Ilinden-Preobrazhenie Uprising against the Ottomans, which after some initial successes, including the forming of the "Krushevo Republic", was crushed with much loss of life. The uprising and the forming of the Krushevo Republic are considered the cornerstone and precursors to the eventual establishment of the Macedonian state.

Catherine said...

I enjoyed reading your post. Macedonia sounds like a beautiful country steeped in rich heritage, culture, and history. I did not know that Mother Teresa was born in the region either. Thanks for sharing!

Historian said...

Nice post!

Greetings from: www.macedonia-history.blogspot.com

Anonymous said...

Very nice post! My parents are from Macedonia, and I have been there several times, although not since its independence from Yugoslavia. Even in 1989, it was its own little country. Don't tell a Macedonian that he is Bulgarian or Greek, or you'll get a nice big black eye!

Shielabells Parma said...

Are you tired of seeking loans and Mortgages, have you been turned down constantly By your banks and other financial institutions,We offer any form of loan to individuals and corporate bodies at low interest rate. If you are interested in taking a loan, feel free to contact us today, We promise to offer you the best services ever. Just give us a try, because a trial will convince you.What are your Financial needs?Do you need a business loan?Do you need a personal loan?Do you want to buy a car?Do you want to refinance?Do you need a mortgage loan?Do you need a huge capital to start off your business proposal or expansion? Have you lost hope and you think there is no way out, and your financial burdens still persists? Contact us (infoloanfirm8@gmail.com)