Greg in Bulgaria

Sarajevo

2010-10-11T13:12:00.003-04:00

Sarajevo is a place that deserves not only attention, but reflection.

We plled into the station at about 7am and a thin layer of fog and frost had settled over everything. I saw the lights of the city come and go while it was still dark, and we pulled into a secondary bus station in some nondescript village outside the city some time after. Bosnian is another Slavic language, but my Bulgarian only got me about halfway in the battle of understanding. After a bout of pointing and sign language and communication that turned into some new form of Slavic - an awkward middle ground between strangers - I boarded a tram on the advice of the info desk and hoped for the best.

It worked, ans in a moment I was in downtown Sarajevo, the very center of one of the great tragedies of our time. In 1992, the Serbs had completely surrounded the city with artillery and were laying siege to the place almost 24/7. The first glances around the city revealed a mix of new construction, renovation, and the last remnants of the war, still not completely patched up. Walking along the river to my hostel, I passed row after row of old buildings, all pock-marked with the spray of bullets from 15 years ago - the scars of suffering but not defeat - all wordlessly telling a story that ached to be told.

The story, of course, was told, mostly by reporters and camera crews holed up in the now iconic Holiday Inn, right across from the Parliament building and edging a formerly treacherous main drag ominously nicknamed "Snipers' Alley." Nearby is one of several Olympic halls, one of the site of the indoor events of the 1984 Winter Olympic Games. This particular arena is now a department store.

I walked along the river as the city showed its first stirrings of life. I walked until I reached the Old Town section of town, marked along the river by the so-called Latin Bridge. It's a small little stone span, but became the focus of the world's attention when Franz Ferdinand was assassinated there, setting into motion the First World War.

With such a deadly history, one should think the roads would be painted red. In some cases they actually are. Former holes in the pavement etched out by mortar fire were symbolically filled in with red cement, forming the so-called "Sarajevo Roses." Along with the filled in mortar scars in the surrounding buildings, memories of the war are to be found all over.

I checked into the hostel and quickly turned to the streets of Bascarcija, the Old Town, as the city roared to life. The recovery has been total, and one gets a great feeling walking along the cobbled and winding alleyways of the old market streets. Once a major marketplace on the outer edges of the Ottoman Empire, the city was an important link in the trade route between East and West. Today, the mixture of cultures lives on, reminding me strangely of both Vienna and Istanbul at the same time. People of all kinds live harmoniously in this small space. In one city block I counted two mosques, an Orthodox church, a Catholic church, and a synagogue. And who says people can't get along?

I walked and walked my first day, admiring the truly unique culture of Bosnia. And at the same time, my mind wouldn't get settled. This city won't let people ever forget what has happened throughout history. They are proud and full of solidarity. The National History Museum, located in between two gleaming, reconstructed glass towers, squats and crumbles. It has been intentionally left in a state of disrepair - the same condition in which is was left when the war ended - riddled with bullet holes, chunks torn from its facade. Indeed, nobody will ever forget what happened here.

Yet, once inside, the museum is indicative of any modern and well kept structure. This pattern holds true for many places in this city. The people here survived in the small and hidden places, away from the artillery fire constantly falling from the surrounding hilltops and protected against the prying eyes of the ever present snipers. Here, in these tiny nooks, the city's culture lived on and flourished. Today, because of this, Sarajevo is a place teeming with life both inside and out.

My second day, I wrapped up my wandering of the city with a visit to the old Olympic Stadium and Arena. During the war, the surrounding fields and gardens were used as a makeshift burial ground for the thousands of casualties suffered during the 4 year long siege. On this day, however, the stadium was being used for a big regional health conference.

Much like the "Miracle on Ice" that occurred in the 1980 Olympics 4 years previously, in which the underdog American National Hockey Team defeated their Russian arch-rivals, the Bosnians have defeated the seemingly unbeatable rivals of hopelessness and fear. The Bosnians continue to be proud of the fact that their city was an Olympic host. They choose to dwell on the positive aspects of their history, while maintaining a reverence to the tragic ones.

Sarajevo has indeed led a comeback of epic proportions, and in a short time too. The energy and love of life here is an inspiration to me. That this vitality has arisen in the face of such extreme adversity (and while continuing to honor that struggle) is even more so.

Conclusion (for now)

2010-10-08T03:06:00.007-04:00

I am sitting in the Volunteer Lounge at the Peace Corps office in Sofia, preparing my final arrangements and closing my service, working through a rather large checklist. It has been a relatively uneventful few days, as a cold rain has settled in over most of the country. This also blocked out most of the amazing views that I was looking forward to on the drive back to Sofia - a drive that I've taken so many times. In a way it was rather appropriate - looking out the window and seeing absolutely nothing in the fog... the view was left completely up to my imagination and my memory. This gave me a chance to start thinking of how to put into words what my experience here has been like - something proving to be a very difficult task. I have been preparing for my return for the States, thinking about what my response will be to the inevitable questions of, "What was Bulgaria like?" and "So what did you do in Bulgaria?"

All I can think of at the moment is an incoherent jumble of words and sentences in no particular order:

Bulgaria is... strange, beautiful, cold, ugly, misunderstood, enchanting, unbelieveable. It is filled with people who are incredibly nice and helpful and friendly, yet sometimes closed off and closed minded. Bulgaria is small, yet somehow vast. It's the size of a state in America, but takes longer to travel across than it does to fly back to the States. That travel time is some of the best. You can really see what Bulgaria is made of. It is made of mountains and lakes and sunflowers. It is made of tiny villages filled with massive gardens. It is at times covered in garbage. It is relatively poor money-wise but has one of the richest histories of any country I know of. It is very developed in the cities, and very rural elsewhere. The food is very oily and salty, yet everything is fresh. The tomatoes are the best anywhere.

I worked in an orphanage and a preschool. Kids jumped on my back and yelled my name and gave me hugs every day. They threw walnuts at me. I felt like a hero at times, and a villain at others. I was called a father. I was called a son. I was treated like a member of several different families. I survived winters without heat in sub zero weather. I learned the Bulgarian language and the Cyrillic alphabet. I feel like I did a lot but I have few tangible things to show for it. I did a lot of walking. I did a lot of waiting. I built a fitness room. I taught kids how to read. I couldn't reach all the kids, but I did my best. I did a lot of reflection. I did a lot of growing. I saw more of Bulgaria than most Bulgarians. I swam. I climbed. Mostly I walked.

I could go on for a while, but the main thing seems to be that Bulgaria is a land of opposites. That's really what has struck me the whole time I have been here. It is sometimes one thing or the other, and many times both at the same time. It is for this reason I think that is why it is so hard to sum up my time here, but I hope some day to be able to do so.

For now, I will be heading off on a month of travel to help clear my head and take advantage of my being in Europe. My itinerary is as follows: Sofia, Bulgaria - Nis, Serbia - Sarajevo, Bosnia - Dubrovnik, Croatia - Split, Croatia - Ljubljana, Slovenia - Prague, Czech Republic - Brussels, Belgium - Ypres, Belgium - Bruges, Belgium - Amsterdam, Holland - Reykjavik, Iceland - America. Along the way I hope to give some small updates on what places are like and how it's going.

It is hard to believe I am leaving Bulgaria, the place that I have called home for the past 2 years, tomorrow. Many people here have asked me if I will be coming back, and I say of course I will. But in a way I know that part of me will always be in Bulgaria, and part of Bulgaria will always be in me.

The Last Week...

2010-09-29T13:11:00.002-04:00

In exactly a week I will be headed back to Sofia for my final close of service activities - mostly signing off on documents. However, this is also a time for reflection. I filled out my final Volunteer Report Form and my Description of Service recently, and this has put into numerical terms (no easy task) the things I have done here. It is exceptionally hard to number what I have done here. The Peace Corps has told us since day 1 that, as youth development volunteers, we will most likely not see most of the fruits of our labor.

That is especially true with my work at the Detski Yasli (Preschool) here in Preslav. My last day at the Yasli was today, and it was representative of my entire experience there. The children there can call me by name (Bati Greg - "Brother Greg"), and are excited when I play with them and spend time teaching them basic skills. However, when I leave it is as though I am a non-person. The children do not need me there, and yet I still have had some sort of impact on their development.

Youth development, by nature, is a very vague and immaterial assignment. We YD volunteers often joke about "developing the youth," as if that were a concrete and specific task to achieve. In reality, we just do what we think is best for the children. In this country, there is a severe lack of motivation among child care workers. Many times people are employed at child care institutions because it is available and "easy" work, rather than out of a sincere desire to work with the children. For these workers, "developing the youth" is often the last thing on their mind, which makes our work all the more frustrating.

At the Yasli, this was especially evident. With a background in child development I was eager to teach the children there some basic reading skills and some other things. The employees all but laughed at me the first time I brought the subject up, telling me that since they are so little they can not achieve or learn anything. In fact, it is at this stage of development at which the foundations of development are formed, making this time one of the most vital stages in a child's life. I have had some success in teaching basic skills to the children there - namely teaching the children how to count and in some social skills. It was when I started doing this that the staff perhaps realized that spending the time to teach the youngest children (rather than simply watch them) might have a positive impact.

In my opinion this is what youth development is really all about. Not only are we assigned to help the youth, but also to help develop the capacity of the people who work at these institutions. A large part of my work here is uncountable, since it is mainly in just having conversations with people about the abilities and strengths of the children I work with. Even a chance encounter with a neighbor is a "youth development activity," as the subject of the children I work with is inevitably a topic of discussion. People are often surprised when I tell them about how a preschooler I work with can count to ten and sing the alphabet. They are similarly surprised when I tell them that not all the kids I work with at the orphanage are criminals, and are in fact very nice children who perform well in school.

Much of my last week here at the orphanage will be spent in the same way I have been spending my time throughout the past 2 years. I will still be convincing the community members and staff that the children are capable of achieving wonderful things. This is evident in that I was able to teach several illiterate children (some as old as 5th grade) how to read and write, or how to do basic math - something that was never a focus before. Now, some of the orphanage workers have started working with the children one on one to catch them up. It is this achievement that I am most proud of, but the one that is hardest to describe in words and numbers. How do you put in numbers the fact that because of your work, some people might have a more positive view of at risk children and may be more willing to work with them?

I will post my Description of Service here later in order to try to show what I have done here to you all, but really they are just words. I cannot put into words the feelings I have had here and the things I have learned. How do you express in words the feeling when a child says, "You are like a father to me." This coming from a 10 year old child who hasn't seen his father in 5 years, and to a guy who has never had any parenting experience outside of a class in college. I can't tell you the emotions I went through when he told me that. The same day, another boy spit on me and threw walnuts at my face. It is because of this that I have such a hard time talking about my time here.

Perhaps someday I will be able to sort it all out, but for now all I have is the memories. I am forever a changed man for having experienced what I did here. I can only hope that I have been a positive force in the kids' lives.

Sorry that this has been a somewhat jumbled and disjointed post. As you can tell there has been a lot on my mind as I wrap up my service. I hope to write a more cohesive post soon.

Progress

2010-08-24T16:19:00.005-04:00

It's been both a long and a short summer here in Preslav. The second archaeology camp (based on last year's success) came and went without a partner orphanage, but we were able to do a lot of fun activities with the kids, including a hike to the ruins in town (unintentionally held on the hottest day of the year), a lot of fun art projects that the kids had never seen before, an egg hunt for prizes, and parachute games. The whole 5 day "camp" culminated with an excursion for several of the kids to Pliska, the first capital of Bulgaria, and to Madara, home of the UNESCO preserved Madara Horseman, and one of my favorite places in the country.

I also attended my Close of Service conference in Tryavna, a 3 day affair that begins our transition back into life in the States, and to wrap up the last 2 years we've spent in this country we've come to call home. By the end of the conference, there wasn't one dry eye in the house, including mine, as our work here has become such a defining factor in how we view ourselves. Some of us will stay on for another year, and some will remain on this side of the pond for other reasons (like marriage). Most of us will be coming home to a place we haven't stepped foot upon for over 2 years, but all of us will be moving forward in some way.

When I arrived back to what has become my own home here in Preslav, I was greeted with a brand new refrigerator. The older one, a small space not much better than an icebox, failed in the oppressive summer heat. The new one is much nicer, pretty much the quality of a standard fridge in the States, holds more, chills more effectively, and has a separate freezer.

After moving this new machine into the apartment, I marveled for a moment at how far things have progressed since I've been here, and yet couldn't help but feel a bit bitter that this stuff wasn't around when I arrived. Around town, a brand new store has opened just down the street with goodies like Oreos and other things I haven't been able to find for 2 years.

In Varna, about an hour away, A huge new Carrefour store opened just next to the bus station, offering many more imports from home. The place dominates the surrounding area and acts largely as the European version of Wal-Mart. In the same complex, a sports store opened that sells, among other things, baseball equipment. I had been hoping for such a place for the majority of my time here, and now that it has arrived, at the tail end of my service with just a couple months left to go, I can't help but wonder at how much easier things could have been if it had come just a short time before.

In 2 months I will be coming back "home" to a country in which all of these things are just a given - services that are considered basic to even the smallest communities in America and many other places in the world. It would be an understatement that I have gained a new appreciation for these basic things that we as Americans usually take for granted. This was an expected result of my time here.

What wasn't expected was the realization that many of these things that we consider basic aren't really needed at all. They are luxuries that much of the world cannot even fathom. Why do you need one big store that sells everything when there are several small stores that sell all of the same things independently within a distance shorter than a standard aisle in a place like Target? Why would I want to buy peppers at a store that has no connection to the people that raised them when I can walk out my front door to find people roasting peppers on a fire, just feet away from their own gardens? We see in the States a trend to return to buying local or organic, and we pay a hefty price for what we consider a luxury item (farm fresh produce, personalized service, etc.). We then look down on the people who consider this to be the norm. Who then has progressed more?

Bulgaria may need much more time to progress to where we are in the States and catch up to the rest of the civilized world, but we also perhaps may need to slow down and view progress differently. Having a nice big fridge is a great luxury, and the Carrefour is short trip away, but I don't feel like I need any of it.

Will Rogers once said sarcastically that "We had begun to believe that the height of civilization is an automobile, a radio, and a bathtub. 'Course we're smarter now." He was talking about his own period, but it seems we haven't become much smarter today. We've begun to believe that the height of civilization is a hybrid car, an iPhone (or now an iPad), and a nice big house with many bathtubs. But if my time in Bulgaria has taught me anything it's that progress is measured not in the things you own, but in the things you learn. It's measured not by the things you do, but in how you do them. Progress isn't measured by the things you gain in life, but in the way you live it.

And today, I consider myself one of the richest people in the world.

2 Years

2010-07-28T14:07:00.009-04:00

"We shall not cease from exploration. And the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started, and to know the place for the first time."
-T. S. Eliot

Two years ago today I stepped off the plane into my Bulgarian Peace Corps experience. After a couple of days getting to know the other members of my group, I boarded a plane to a place half a world away into an experience I could never have expected and could never forget. I can remember vividly those first few confusing, desperate hours... Landing in Sofia and immediately being shepherded into a bus, lured by strange Bulgarian chocolate bars (later to become an addiction known as "vafla" haha) in a half-aware state not quite awake, but unable to sleep. We stopped in a small town along the way and I made my first purchase in Bulgarian leva - Spinach and Cheese flavored Bake Rolls (later to become another staple in my life). After nodding off a couple of times, we rolled into the mountain village of Panichishte, greeted with bread and honey by traditionally-clothed locals.

The rest of that first week has become somewhat of a blur, but I can vividly remember saying to a camera "This is life right now," and really believing it, until the camera turned off and I realized that it was an incredibly pretentious thing to say. Moments later we were whisked off to our training site, Krainitsi, and life would never be the same.

Over these two years I've forged some really deep friendships with my fellow volunteers - people I couldn't dream of forgetting. I traveled to 9 different countries. I've done some incredible things with the kids here, including coordinating 2 camps, creating a fitness room, teaching children how to read and encouraging them to make positive life decisions. I have not only gotten to know many incredible Bulgarian people, but have also been accepted as part of their families (thank you Baba!). I've become fluent in a language that most people never even knew existed. I've seen all the ups and downs of this beautiful yet enigmatic country - climbed its mountains, swam in its Black Sea waters, and admired its traditions amidst its beautifully blooming countrysides.

Next week I will go to my Close of Service Conference, during which I will start the process of wrapping up my experience here and moving on the the next phase of my life. This will be the last goodbye to some of the people in my group - a group that lost over a third of its members since meeting for the first time in that conference room in Washington DC. I am among the survivors, and incredibly proud that I have come this far. It's something that can accurately be called a journey - full of joy and turmoil, confidence and confusion, intense and unbearable heat and bone-chilling uninsulated and unheated cold.

In less than 3 months we will leave this country and assume our "normal" lives. But what does that mean if life in this place has become so seemingly normal? I can't wait to find out.

Until next time.

Ohrid

2010-07-17T14:10:00.011-04:00

The next stop on our Macedonian journey was Ohrid (pronounced okh-REED), the lakeside resort town located in the southwesternmost part of the country. The bus drive there was a story in itself - a heartstoppingly beautiful drive through the mountainous countryside of a country itself completely covered in mountains. Small mosques and picturesque little churches were visible everywhere in each of the small villages we passed, standing side by side. The villages themselves seemed, to passers by, very well developed and well kept, and I would very much like to come back and explore more of this beautiful region.

After about 3 hours we arrived at Ohrid's bus station, and a few minutes later, we were greeted by the sunny shores of the town's namesake, Lake Ohrid. A small port lies at the center of town, providing a great view of the old part of town. Built on the cliffs lining the northern part of the lake.

Shortly after checking in to our hostel (which, like most places in town, provided a great view of the lake), we headed out to explore the town. Legend has it that 365 churches were built around Lake Ohrid, one for every day of the year. I believe it. Small churches turn up in the most unexpected of places - a back alley, by a remote little dock, in the side of a cliff - they are everywhere here, giving the town a very unique feel, as if the town really hadn't experienced some of the most brutal of regimes, first the Ottomans, then the communists.

One of the most impressive of these is the Cathedral of St. Kliment Ohridski. Kliment was perhaps Ohrid's most famous citizen, and statues of him adorn many cities around the area, including my own site, Preslav. He was a follower of Kiril and Metodi (the inventors of the Cyrillic alphabet), and was largely responsible for its spread throughout the region and its legitimacy as a real form of language for the Slavic people. Interestingly enough, Kliment later moved to the region in which I now live, setting up shop in Pliska, the first Bulgarian capital, about 30 minutes from Preslav.

Today, the cathedral has been restored to its former glory atop the ruins of the old one, overlooking the lake at one of its most beautiful points. His remains are interred inside the walls of the newly restored building, and Slavic-speaking people from all over come to pay their respects to the man who helped give them a voice. As such, the old monastery is considered one of the most sacred places to the Bulgarian people, and indeed all speakers of languages derived from the old Slavonic language.

Also of note to Bulgarian history, the Monastery of Saint Naum is located just a short distance from town. Saint Naum, later known as Saint Naum of Preslav, was a founder and major contributor to the Preslav Literary School, also known for helping to develop and popularize the Cyrillic alphabet. Some of the ruins of this important academy are located not 10 minutes from my house. This was a very special connection for me, and gave me a very personal appreciation of the history of Ohrid.

Like Skopje, Ohrid is dominated by a large fortress atop the tallest hill within the city limits. The fortress provides visitors with the best views in town, and from within its walls one can see all of Ohrid, and all the way across the huge lake into Albania.

On the edge of town, around the cliffs and accessible only by a small boardwalk or boat is the beautiful Church of St. John at Kaneo, built directly on the side of the mountain and looking down into the depths of the lake. Dating back to the 14th century, this small but picturesque church rewards the faithful (or adventurous) with a very unique experience. Removed just a small distance from the noise of the city, the spot seems worlds away, a place where one can experience the same beauty and isolation as monks of old must have sought.

Ohrid has moved into one of the top spots to visit in the region, providing so much history and beauty that it could not accurately be summed up in one small blog post. I could have spent an indefinite time in this amazing city by the lake. Though it is a relatively large city, the scale is diminished when contrasted to the landscape and the history surrounding it. After 3 days I was not prepared to leave, but we had to, and I can only hope that I can make it back to this amazing place.

The Macedonia Question

2010-07-15T13:55:00.013-04:00

Macedonia is a region that lies roughly west of Bulgaria, north of Greece, east of Albania, and south of Serbia. In 1991, the place declared it's own statehood, and the topic has been subject to endless debate since. The problem arises from the fact that all of these places call the people known as "Macedonians" as members of their own ethnicity:

-Serbia declares Macedonians as Serbs, since Macedonia was one of the parts of the former Yugoslavia during the times of communism. Even today the constitution of Macedonia says that any future reunion of Yugoslavia must include Macedonia.
-Greeks declare that Macedonia is an integral part of the Greek land, having owned it for much of the region's history. They refuse to acknowledge the country as "Macedonia" as this opens the door to Macedonians declaring rights on the Greek portion of Macedonia, which shares the same name but is Greek-speaking. They only recognize the state as the "Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia," and will block any attempts by the Macedonian government to join the EU until the name situation is resolved.
-Albanians declare rights to several areas of Macedonia. For example, the capital of Macedonia, Skopje, was once an Albanian city. Albanians make up one of the largest minorities in the country.
-Finally, Bulgarians officially declare Macedonian people as "ethno-politically disoriented Bulgarians," since the language is so close to Bulgarian, and the 2 nations share much of the same culture and history. Bulgarian nationalists declare that there are "over 2 million Bulgarians trapped abroad," in reference to the population of Macedonia.

All of the nations raise questions as to whether or not Macedonia is a "real country." This has presented a major problem for this country in the middle of a geopolitical crossroads, and is the foundation of the debate known as "the Macedonia Question."

Yet somehow, the Macedonians have clung to the idea that they are a distinct people, and are fiercely proud of their country and the things they have contributed to the world throughout history. Some important figures who hailed from the region are Alexander of Macedon (aka Alexander the Great), Kiril and Metodi (inventors of the Cyrillic alphabet), and more recently Mother Teresa (born in Skopje). Whether or not these people are "Macedonians" is really beside the point. Macedonia declared itself an independent country in 1991, declared Macedonian it's official language, and immediately began the long process of trying to prove its statehood to the world.

I spent my last bit of vacation here in Peace Corps on a quick trip down to the source of all this confusion, and quickly found out that Macedonia is, in fact, a real country. It contains real people and has a real culture, that after mixing together aspects of all the different surrounding nations, becomes something all its own.

We started our trip in the capital city of Skopje, just 5 hours away from Sofia by bus. The city was very walkable and for a capital city, very small and manageable. The main attraction here is the Kale Fortress (which is somewhat redundant, "Kale" is Macedonian for "fortress"), which towers over the Vardar River in the middle of the city. The fortress walls have been restored, and the huge Macedonian flags adorning it's parapets are visible all over town. The view from the fortress is unparalleled, giving the visitor a view of the whole city below it.

The center of town boasts the recently constructed Memorial House of Mother Teresa, built in the style of a traditional home, and then decorated with fanciful murals depicting symbols of peace. Atop this structure stands the Memorial Chapel, a very modern structure devoted to the ideals of Mother Teresa and her quest for world peace. Light streams in everywhere, giving the building a very special feel. The building also houses a museum with relics such as her Bible, various notes, and displays chronicling the life of one of the most famous citizens of Skopje.

Near the center, and across the river lies the Old Town. The way the streets wind around little mosques here reminded me of my visit to Turkey, and indeed the whole place has a more Eastern vibe to it, a very nice change of pace from the largely Eastern European feel of the town. Shopkeepers can be seen outside plying their wares and haggling with customers just as they would in a place like Istanbul. Duner Kebabs and Turkish tea are found readily and abundantly...

The Turkish influence can be felt all over this side of town. Again, Macedonia was once part of another nation - the Turkish Ottoman Empire, which once controlled the majority of the Balkans. However, unlike Bulgaria which seems to have repressed much of its Turkish influence, Macedonia seems to have embraced it (at least a bit), and mosques can be seen all over, dotting the countryside and peeking out in the middle of cities. The cuisine is a bit more Turkish influenced as well.

In the middle of town lies the Old Stone Bridge, one of the oldest structures in town, and still basically in tact after about 500 years. This bridge has seen many owners - the Turks, the Albanians, the Serbs, etc. - and seems to be a symbol of Macedonia itself. The bridge connects the new center to the Old Town and the fortress, and in this way connects all aspects of its history right in the most central part of the city. As the waters of time pass under the bridge, the structure stands, unchanged from empire to empire as a testament to not only the perseverance but also the very identity of the Macedonian people, a people who have taken aspects of each previous culture and have pieced them together to create something all their own.

Kazanluk Rose Festival

2010-06-11T06:27:00.005-04:00

This weekend I was able to take a day trip over to the city of Kazanluk, a nice town in the middle of the country, to take in the annual Festival of the Roses. Kazanluk is located in what is called the Valley of the Roses, so called because of the vast swaths of roses grown there. This tiny region of the country accounts for about 60% of the world's production of rose oil, which is then used to make products such as perfume and other things sold for their aroma. As such, the rose has become something of a national symbol for Bulgaria.

The area is also known as the Valley of the Thracian Kings, being home to several dozen ancient Thracian tombs, including one preserved as a UNESCO heritage site. Another site, the ancient city of Sevtopolis, was completely covered in water when the communist government brilliantly built a dam right next to it. There are plans in the works to resurface the ruins of the ancient city, but those are just theoretical right now. Other attractions in the area include Shipka and it's amazing golden domed cathedral, the place in which Bulgarians repelled the Turks with Russian help, and Buzludja, the strange UFO shaped building that used to house the headquarters of the Bulgarian Communist Party.

On this day, however, we just stayed in Kazanluk for a bit and enjoyed the festivities. The day opened at the rose fields outside of town, where plenty of people dressed in traditional costumes invited us to go out into the muddy fields and pick roses for ourselves.

The view from the valley below is incredible, and the blooming roses fill the whole area with their fragrance. It's a bit overpowering at first, but makes for a very unique experience.

Later, we watched as traditional musicians and dancers put on a presentation near the fields. This performance was attended by the President of Bulgaria, as well as tons of ambassadors (as well as their amazing cars with their national flags on them). After that it was picture time for the tourists. There were people from pretty much everywhere in attendance, all being showered with rose petals by little children in traditional costumes. Meanwhile the old men continued playing their music...

Walking back from the fields, we stopped at the national Rose Museum, located at the Institute of Roses and Other Aromatic Plants. I had no idea there was such an institute previously, but here it was - containing specimens of basically every color rose possible, as well as specimens of lavender, lilac, and other flowers. The garden was all very picturesque, though the museum was anything but interesting.

Before catching the bus at 3, there was another dance session at the square, which today was lined with all sorts of vendors selling traditional pottery and various rose-containing products. It seemed like much of the town had converged on the square as live horo music blasted away. All the people came from a huge parade featuring what seemed to be every single group in the city and surrounding area. This made for a huge party-like atmosphere, bringing together all the different groups in one big festive dance.

I had to get back to my town, so the visit was cut a bit short, but overall I really enjoyed this festival. I think with that, I've attended almost every major festival in Bulgaria (this one is one of the big ones). There's one last one in August that takes place only every 5 years, and so it will be a treat to go experience that. The Rose Festival was a great time though, and a good taste of Bulgarian culture for everyone involved.

Wien

2010-06-09T10:23:00.007-04:00

Several years ago with my family, I went on a trip to Germany, Switzerland, and Austria that lives on in my memory as one of the best trips I have ever taken. That trip stoked my wanderlust into a frenzy and is probably one of the main reasons I love traveling so much today.

During that trip we made just a quick jaunt into Austria. Salzburg was, as I recall, a very beautiful town. Even then, it seemed that Austria was a very elegant place filled with castles, old impossibly detailed architecture, and of course a lot of Mozart. At the end of the trip, my grandfather remarked that he wished we could have gone to Vienna, but it was too far away, and we were off again to some other incredible destinations in the area.

On my latest trip, I finally got around to seeing Vienna - a place that people have talked up so much in my life I had doubts that it was even a real place at all. Finally I would be able to experience this magical place. My experience in Vienna was somewhat bittersweet. We arrived to the city at a time in which, apparently, everything was being renovated. Almost every beautiful old building and gigantic landmark was wrapped in scaffolds, undergoing either cleaning or else some other restoration work.

This was most evident in St. Stephen's Square, home of the massive and amazing St. Stephen's Cathedral. Though the amazing tile-patterned roof and the gigantic spire were visible, much of the lower portions of the cathedral were shrouded in scaffolds and a protective covering that oddly enough had massive pictures of the place that stood behind it. I thought this was funny because so often we go see a place in person because the pictures don't do it justice, and here stood the structure - itself basically a huge picture. Still, visiting there gave some sense of the scale, and the visible portions of the spire and walls gave a fleeting idea of the amount of detail present on the surface. It also made me shudder at how hard it must be to clean it all. The top half of the cathedral has been cleaned and restored, a beautiful white stone masterpiece, while the bottom half is covered in soot and ash. I am sure that when all the restoration is done it will blow people away.

One place that wasn't covered in scaffolding was the beautiful Belvedere Palace, now housing a massive art museum and home to some of the world's most expensive paintings (such as a collection of original Klimt masterworks, such as his famous "the Kiss"). The gardens outside are immaculate and the paintings lining the inside of the building aren't so bad themselves. Funnily enough, the lobby of the building was being restored, though all of the paintings were available for viewing.

Mostly, we wandered the streets of Vienna, gawking at the beauty and luxury of it all. In Bulgaria, many of the structures are visibly worn and falling apart, or else very utilitarian and gray. It was a great pleasure therefore, to just walk around in a city in which most of the streets look like this:

One exception is this oddity by Friedrich Hundertwasser - the HundertwasserHaus and Kunst Haus Wien. Hundertwasser was an architect who believed that the current course of modern architecture was sucking the soul and creativity out of city dwellers. He sought to change that by creating buildings that are vibrant and green. The interiors of the buildings all feature uneven floors made of different materials because he believed that architecture isn't just about the look and function of a building, but a complete sensory experience. The block of apartments is covered in plants, some of which grow freely out of the windows (apparently in order to clean the air around the building), and the exterior is made to be as visually stimulating as possible.

It seems the city of Vienna has always shared Hundertwasser's view that the city's landscape should be as stimulating as possible. The old town area contains hundreds of ornate and historic buildings, concentrated in an area you can cover in just a few hours. But doing that defeats the point. Vienna is a place in which people are made to slow down and enjoy their surrounding, and indeed life itself. Life has always been good here, and the mood of the people and the atmosphere around town reflect that.

Vienna really is one of the most beautiful cities in the world. I didn't get that view from just the architecture and the landmarks, since many of them were hidden at the time. Even though much of the city was being renovated when I went there, the whole feel of the place was something that really touched me. The renovations themselves show how much pride the Austrians have in their most important city. More important though was the whole vibe of the place. It attracts visitors from all over the world, but still retains a sophisticated yet laid back charm. I'll defintiely be back in the future. Maybe then, when the renovations are complete, the city will surprise me all over again.

Buda Pest

2010-06-02T05:15:00.008-04:00

We left Bratislava very early on our second day, so early that many people were still coming back from the bars on our way to the train station, even though the sun was coming up. This made for an interesting few interactions. At any rate, we hopped on a train just in time and were on our way to Budapest.

This city was pretty highly hyped before I came, being billed as one of the most beautiful cities anywhere. Naturally I was skeptical, and arriving at the train station my skepticism was initially proven correct. The area around the station reminded me much of Romania with its old Gothic buildings. However, when we came up on the other side of the metro, closer to where our hotel was located, my views started to change. Already without even venturing into the main part of the city I had seen a wide variety of architecture, and green spaces were everywhere.

We checked into the hotel and changed our money. My wallet was stocked with around 40,000 Hungarian Forints or some ridiculously super-inflated number like that, which really isn't a lot, but it went a long way and I still had some left after leaving.

Our hotel was located on the Buda side of the Danube River, the more residential side of a city that was originally 2 different towns - Buda and Pest. Buda is a bit less dense, and the main attractions on its banks are the Fisherman's Bastion and Buda Castle. We made our way to the Fisherman's Bastion, and stayed only for a short time since it was super touristy. The whole place seemed like something out of the Magic Kingdom without the rides and with just as many tourists. I think the place itself was built just recently in order to serve as a viewpoint across the Danube. There is a beautiful cathedral located here, and a pretty nice old town area, but overall much nicer from a distance.

The Pest side quickly salvaged things, already living up to its billing as one of the most beautiful cities even as we were crossing the bridge over the Danube. From the middle of the Danube, the scope of the city was made evident, and magnificent buildings line each side of the river. King of all these was the Hungarian Parliament, topped with what seems like hundreds of little spires. Buda Castle gracefully looks down from the other side, looking more like a stately library or museum (which it now is) rather than a castle.

After walking around Pest for a while, seeing the giant St. Peter's Basilica in the center, and walking up and down some of the main roads, we settled in for a tour of the Jewish Quarter. Tours aren't something I usually enjoy doing, but this one was really well done by local volunteers, and really may have been necessary to navigate the tiny winding streets of the area.

Around the time of WWII, the Jewish Quarter was walled off from the rest of the city, and the people inside left to starve in this makeshift prison. Today, the quarter has been declared a World Heritage Site, and has become a somewhat eclectic neighborhood of collapsing buildings and monumental synagogues (including the largest in Europe). Tons of restaurants and cafes lurk inside many of the buildings, making for a truly unique atmosphere.

On our second day in Hungary, we took off on a day trip to Esztergom - home of the largest church in Hungary. We arrived after riding by commuter train and bus for about and hour and a half. The journey was well worth it, as the Basilica is a gigantic work of art. The sheer size is impressive enough, but even more so is the interior of blue marble, creating a beautiful space more than fitting to be the seat of religion in Hungary. We climbed to the top of the dome at the Basilica, which gives an incredible view of the area, including the town and across the Danube into Slovakia.

The rest of the day was spent bumming around in the charming center of Esztergom and then returning to Budapest where we took a stroll along the Danube for a bit. There we came across one of the most moving memorials in the world. A collection of bronzed shoes lines a section of the Danube near the Parliament, marking the location where Nazi soldiers regularly shot residents of the Jewish Quarter into the water. Most were never seen again or given a proper burial. As such, the shoes are filled with candles, flowers, and other mementos to keep their memory alive and to ensure that nothing so brutal ever happens again.

Our final day in Hungary continued the pattern of walking a ridiculous distance every day, this time deeper inside Pest, where we saw Vajdahunyad Castle, where a local fair was taking place. After stuffing our faces with marzipan and various meats, we watched some local kids doing a performance of some Medieval tradition, followed inevitably by some hip hop. The castle was enough of an attraction. I swear I've seen some parts of this thing in Fantasy Land at the Magic Kingdom. The thing that set this place apart and on a different level from the Fisherman's Bastion, however, was the authenticity of the place. From what I could gather, most of the visitors were locals, and the place just had a nice vibe about it, rather than the rushed and overpriced nature of the Bastion.

Our day, and our time in Hungary, came to a close at the top of Gellert Hill. The highest point in the city, the hill is covered with a massive park and is topped by an old fortress and a Communist era statue. From the fortress, the whole scope of the city unfolds before your eyes, making the climb a worthwhile experience. Bisected by the Danube, the dual nature of the city is made clear - each side trying to outdo the other in terms of grandeur. It's a lot to take in.

Overall, I think that Budapest's reputation as one of the most beautiful cities in the world is truly deserved. I think that's because its very nature sets it apart from other places. It's one unified place competing against itself, giving it the motivation to keep itself beautiful and to keep pushing the envelope to keep it ahead of... itself. Yet the city is a paradox in other ways as well - wonderfully classic and fashionably modern, touristic and yet with a nice local vibe, gigantic and yet liveable and eminently walkable. All of these things make Budapest a place that cannot just fade into the depths of your memory. Like the shoes that line Pest's promenade, the city remains in your mind as a place that reminds the visitor what life was once like and yet also what it could be.

Greg in Bratislava

2010-05-31T05:15:00.004-04:00

My luck with traveling by plane this year hasn't exactly been the best... Back in October I had planned to do this trip to Vienna, Bratislava, and Budapest with some friends. That ended up falling through when the budget airline we had booked with went bankrupt and all the flights canceled. Then last time around, as I posted earlier, I booked a flight to Belgium which was grounded due to the Icelandic volcano spewing ash all over Europe. Now that isn't to say I haven't enjoyed my travels so far - I've been to some amazing places, and still hope to get to some more before I leave. I have just had to get to these places on the ground.

This week, I had another go at the Vienna, Bratislava, and Budapest trip, and gave the airline industry another shot. This time, luckily, the flight went off without a hitch, and we arrived at the Austria airport early in the morning and were off to Bratislava, Slovakia as soon as we could - coming back to enjoy Vienna a bit later after stopping back through Hungary.

To tell the truth, I had no idea what Slovakia would have in store. Bratislava, the capital, about an hour from Vienna, seems to be constantly overlooked, being located between three major tourist destinations (Vienna, Budapest, Prague). All in all it's a small town, and because of this it's sometimes not considered worth the time, or at best worth a day trip.

When we arrived, it looked much like Bulgaria - concrete housing blocks everywhere, a very industrial feel that belies its Communist past like many of these old Soviet buffer countries. The thing that immediately struck me though, was that despite the grayness the city was very clean and orderly. New modern construction was going up everywhere, and many of the old blocks were being painted in nice colors, or otherwise looked well kept (in contrast to Bulgaria where they are often found in derelict condition with the facades falling off) It was easy to get around in the town, and we found our way to the hotel with no problems.

Things changed, however when we started walking around and getting deeper into town. The lushly green center serves as the gateway between the towns two main attractions - the Danube River and Old Town Bratislava. We found our way there after following the Danube for a while and generally getting lost.

The Danube, as it flows through Bratislava, is a natural buffer between the old and new parts of town. The two sides are connected by the Novy Most (New Bridge), a gigantic UFO-looking structure clearly from the days of the "forward looking" Communist days, able to be seen from most places in town.

Directly next to the Novy Most stands Bratislava Castle. The castle was partially destroyed at the turn of the 20th century, and was rebuilt in the 50's sometime. Today, the structure isn't so much a castle, but something like a big white cube on top of the hill. They've generally done a good job of restoring it, and from a distance it is very charming. Seeing it up close was slightly disappointing, being completely painted white, old stones and all. They've added some random windows to make them more symmetrical, and in doing so, I think maybe some of the character has been lost. Walking up to the castle some of the original parts have been preserved (the gate, some of the lower buildings, the walls), and those ivy-lined and cobbled places gave some impression of what it was like before it was rebuilt. The real attraction here wasn't so much the castle, but the park surrounding it, and the incredible views its position affords, looking out over the Danube and the Old Town below.

Speaking of the Old Town, this was by far the highlight of the visit. A winding network of random cobblestone streets weave through classical buildings containing all sorts of restaurants, cafes, and shops. It has been beautifully preserved, and has miraculously avoided much of the really "touristy" things that places like this sometimes attract. We walked around the area for hours, discovering new places around every corner, and there are a surprising amount of churches, towers and other attractions within the relatively small confines of the Old Town.

Later in the day we climbed back up to the castle to check out the Slovakian Food Festival that was going on. We sampled some of the local dishes and drinks prepared excellently by gourmet places around the country (as well as some foreign offerings such as Arabic and Japanese). Walking behind the tents and eating our food, we took in this view of the Old Town below:

After walking back through the old town and hanging out at a cafe or two we turned back in to the hostel, exhausted after a day of nonstop walking and exploring. The city had more than enough to offer for a full day of sightseeing, relaxing, and eating, and I could have stayed for another if we had the time. However, we had bigger places to move on to - traveling to spend 3 days in Budapest and later a couple of days in Vienna. Though the time in Bratislava was short, I could definitely see myself coming back here again sometime in the future. The town has a relatively untouched character, yet is still pleasantly developed, offering anything a traveler could need or want.

I think the most interesting thing about the visit to Bratislava was that it offered a vision of what some places in Bulgaria could become in the future. Here is a city that 20 years ago was probably falling apart as so many other former Communist cities were at the time of the fall of the Wall. With a bit more time, I could definitely see Bulgaria developing into a similar place. Plovdiv's Old Town is already almost there, and Varna's isn't far behind. With its new membership in the EU, I can see it happening sooner rather than later - if things line up right.

Perhaps when I return to Bulgaria after some time, I'll be similarly pleasantly surprised just as I was by Slovakia...

Live at the Acropolis

2010-04-27T15:04:00.024-04:00

When I was younger, my first exposure to the existence of the Acropolis was (I'm not sure if shamefully is the right word) due to Yanni's extremely popular TV special and concert CD "Live at the Acropolis," which my mom owned and played frequently. I'm not sure, but I would wager to say that this CD is still one of my mom's favorites, seeing as though the number of times I heard the CD in its entirety back in the day probably counts in the hundreds. I also remember vividly that the music was also used as the soundtrack for Epcot's fountain show. In fact, it wasn't until later, when we started to study history in school, that I found out that the Acropolis was a real place. It was not until much later that I realized that its function was not primarily an amphitheater for concerts. Still, even though I eventually learned the deep history of the Acropolis, I have always associated the idea of it with that strange mustachioed man on TV.

When I arrived to Athens, one of the first things that was visible to me was, in fact, the Acropolis. It is extremely hard to miss, being located on one of the highest places in the city. It is visible from most places in town, and the sight of it helped guide me from the bus station down a number of winding little side streets to the Plaka district, above which the Acropolis sits. Plaka is a very confusing place, especially for a person with only a vague idea of where he is going, as I was. However, a mere glance upwards orients you in the right direction.

The right direction, as it turns out, wasn't the only thing you need to navigate these streets. I eventually reached a neighborhood there that no cars could drive through, being instead reduced to a confusing network of stairs and sidewalks between houses built on the side of the hill. A number of signs pointed the way to the entrance of the Acropolis, but they usually went around in circles. Still, the place was extremely charming and a joy to walk through, even if I had no idea where I was or even what time it was (as if that really mattered).

Luckily, an old local man finally showed me the way, and I ascended the hill until I reached the Propylaea, the gigantic gates of the main complex. A huge restoration project is currently underway at the Acropolis and there is scaffolding everywhere. Still, the scaffolds do not detract from the beauty and scale of the place, and in fact makes you wonder how the old temples survived all these years, through wars and years of rule under different empires, without any sort of work until the project began only in recent history. It is a different sort of beautiful to know that steps are being taken so that future generations can come to see the place.

Just below and away from the Propylae, sits the gigantic Odeon, or the theater of the Acropolis. This was immediately recognizable to me for the reasons cited above - the image of Yanni burned into my memory, with the lights flashing all around the place and thousands of people in the stands watching the orchestra. Apparently, they still hold regular concerts here in the summer. I think that it would, in fact be an awesome experience to see a concert here, as the atmosphere is amazing. The back of the theater is amazingly preserved, lined with several elegant yet strong arches that have survived for thousands of years. The stands have been restored, giving a visitor an idea of what it must have been like to sit there so long ago. The Parthenon is visible just behind the theater, and past the arches lies the city, stretching on in every direction out to the Aegean sea. It's a pretty amazing sight.

Finally, at the top of the mountain lies the big daddy of all ancient temples - the Parthenon. This structure is receiving the most restoration work, and cranes jut out from the middle and scaffolds line the walls. It's an absolutely gigantic building, and pictures do not do it justice. I was surprised at the size and scope - having previously thought that there was no way it could be as big as people said it was. I was wrong. It towers over everything.

I arrived just before the hoards of tourists descended on it, and still it was pretty crowded. This is definitely one of the places that is special not because it's untouched and undiscovered, but precisely because so many people have been to it, connecting everyone who visits it, all the way through history. It's an incredible and indescribable feeling to stand in the shadow of the Parthenon and be amazed, just as the others there, and just as others in ancient times must have been amazed. The detail in the top of the Parthenon is evident, and you can still see the statues in the friezes.

Right next to the Parthenon is the Erechtheum, which I previously thought was much larger. It is however mostly untouched by the scaffolds, and gracefully sits at the edge of the Acropolis cliffs. The Porch of the Caryatids, seen on the side is pretty amazing in itself, and very beautiful. It's hard to conceive how the detail of these statues has remained intact, especially since they bear the weight of a gigantic stone ceiling, whereas most of the other ceilings around the Acropolis have been destroyed or otherwise collapsed. The other slender columns around the temple provide a nice contrast to the sheer, almost overwhelming massiveness of the Parthenon.

After leaving the Acropolis I went for a hike in the nearby hills, which have all been preserved as a sort of park, containing other interesting places such as the prison of Socrates and some old Byzantine churches. The best thing from this park however are the unspoiled views of the whole Acropolis complex, giving you a taste of what it may have been like to live there in ancient times.

The best vantage point was from the Hill of the Nymphs, atop which sits the remains of another temple, beautiful in itself. A nice path led up to the temple, which was part of another complex that served as a lookout and guard post towards the sea, which you can see from the hill. However, away from the tourist crowds, and directly across from the Acropolis, the main attraction was the view.

I walked around in the park for hours, just enjoying the views and the feeling of walking the roads that the ancients paced. There was a complex of old ruins that once housed philosophers, and another that served as a meeting place for politicians. Everywhere in the area there was something of former importance, or a place that some ancient deity considered sacred. This brought me back to the old stories we were taught in school - the old myths, and later Greek history. It all came alive for me, and it was easy to see how such places were considered important then. It was truly an inspiring moment to look out over the old city and reflect on how the events that transpired in this place have had such a profound ripple effect through history. Even today, we are still using Greek ideas and philosophies, and the places in which those concepts developed are still here.

I think that the most incredible part of it all was not seeing the ancient buildings. Though an amazing experience, being amongst the buildings was only a vehicle to experience the most amazing feeling of all - the connectedness that I felt to the past and the people that have lived there throughout the ages. Standing there on that hill and looking out over this marvelous place, the present is linked to the past - philosophers, politicians, artists, teachers, friends, family... even Yanni. Everything just comes together.

Trip to Greece (after a blog hiatus)

2010-04-27T12:39:00.004-04:00

I made my last blog post in the beginning of March. As the end of April approaches, I am sorry to say that I have sat down several times to write a blog, but couldn't find the words. Over the next couple of days I will try to remedy that situation.

Much has happened, the biggest of which has been a visit from my family to Bulgaria, the completion of my fitness room project at the orphanage, and a trip to Athens (from which I just returned last night). These large scale events always make writing much easier for me, because sometimes it takes something big to make me recognize all of the smaller noteworthy things, reflect on them, and then finally share them with everyone. So I'll start with the event that's still the most fresh in my mind - the trip to Greece, and then I'll work back from there, and hopefully the momentum will help get the words out.

Originally I had planned to go to Belgium, and had booked a flight out there and made all the necessary reservations and plans and everything. The first flight got cancelled due to the situation arising from the Icelandic ash that blanketed northwestern Europe for a bit. I arranged for a flight a few days later hoping that everything would be cleared up, and upon arrival to the airport a few hours early, it seemed that everything was a go. However, at 4:30am, the departure board suddenly changed to show a big red "cancelled" notification next to my flight again. A young Belgian couple next to me contemplated taking a bus from Sofia to Paris, and then on to Brussels. I contemplated following them (since the window in which I could take vacation was closing), if only that trip wouldn't have taken over 36 hours. My best laid plans had suddenly been lost in the volcanic ash forever, and so I trudged back temporarily vacationless to Sofia's center to reformulate things.

After a time, I got it into my head that I would head south into neighboring Greece. Armed with my guidebook and a sleepless mind, I quickly pulled together something vaguely resembling a trip, and would spend 4 nights in Athens and its environs. It struck me as I finished making these hasty plan and laid down for a quick couch nap before heading to the bus station that this is probably the only time in my life I will have been able to, almost completely on a whim, change my travel plans form one continental extreme to another. The next morning, I woke up in Greece.

Athens had always been a place high on my list of places I wanted to visit, having studied Greek mythology and history for a majority of my childhood. The stories always captivated me, and instilled in me a deep interest in history. It was exciting to finally step off the bus and have everything made real.

I think the first thing that struck me was how big and modern the the city of Athens is. I think in visiting these historic places we originally have this romantic notion that it's all ruins and history, without stopping to think that over the course of 3000 years, a very real city has developed on the same spot. The result is an awesome layering effect - having ancient ruins laying directly beneath newer buildings from the late 1800s and then modern architecture topping it all. This creates a real sense of place while walking around town.

After arriving I walked directly to the center, where I had a quick breakfast and then headed straight on to tackle the sights - the most impressive of which is the gigantic Acropolis, to which I'll dedicate another separate blog post.

Chestita Baba Marta

2010-03-02T14:26:00.003-05:00

With the arrival March, the Bulgarians symbolically ring in the arrival of the Spring season with the uniquely Bulgarian holiday called Baba Marta. Baba Marta, literally "grandmother March," is the personification of the first month of Spring. She is an old lady, who brings flowers and sunshine when she is happy, or rain and cold wind when cranky.

The first day of March also brings with it the exchange of martenitsi - red and white bracelets given to represent the new life and purity that spring will carry with it. Tradition holds that you have to wear these bracelets until you see a flowering tree. At that time you take off the martenitsi and tie them to the tree. This is one of the only things I can think of that only exists in Bulgaria.

Martenitsis tied to a flowering tree

Here in Preslav, Baba Marta must still be pretty angry, since we've been having rain recently, with more cold temperatures and rain lingering in the forecast for a while longer. However, when she showed up at the preschool she seemed pretty happy. On second thought that wasn't the real Baba Marta, but a staff member dressed up to give martenitsis to the kids. Songs were sung and games were played to celebrate the arrival of Spring. At the orphanage, more martenitsis were distributed from various groups around town. Most of the children's wrists cannot be seen under the sheer number of them all. As for myself, I got a few from people around town, including from the preschool staff and from the other members of my horo class.

I'll be wearing my martenitsis until I see that first bud on a tree around town. Although I'm not particularly superstitious, I'm secretly hoping this will lend success to my fitness room project...

Until next time...

There's Always Something

2010-02-17T13:38:00.006-05:00

It’s been a long time since my last update, for whatever reason. Maybe it’s because of laziness, maybe an inability to put my thoughts into words lately, but not for lack of things to write about.

There’s always something to write about.

Several things have come and gone, some of them noteworthy enough to write a blog post about (my fitness room project coming up will get a blog post soon), some of them somewhat newsworthy but not exciting or interesting enough to have a blog post written about them (my birthday and the Super Bowl, or Kukeri which I posted about last year), and many of them not exciting or interesting at all (going about my daily life, or how I do laundry seemingly every day now).

So with all that in the mix it gets harder to work up a blog post of any substance. I like writing about things that I feel have some weight to them. I like the end result of what I write to be a fully thought out result of an observation I make, or a trip I go on, or something of the sort. And I hope the end result comes out well on the side of the reader. That is unless you readers would like me to write up a daily account that would read more like a to-do list than anything cohesive or (what I would perceive as) interesting.

The reason I was inspired to write something today was from a quote taken from a conversation I had with my coworker the other day. We were discussing an unfortunate event that happened earlier in the day. A couple of the orphanage boys skipped out on class, stole some bags and started running. They were eventually caught, but the damage was already done. The boys were scheduled to be transferred from the VP orphanage to a different one. The discussion was hardly surprising, but what took me was what she said during a pause in the conversation.

“There is always something to be angry about.”

Now I suppose this is true, but it seemed to capture the essence of working here perfectly. This is a place in which you have to pick your battles, to focus on the good things that happen, and to take every day one step at a time. Often the situation here is to forget those common pieces of advice and to expect everything from everyone all the time. When someone thinks that things should be perfect all the time, of course you’re going to be constantly angry.

However, it’s not just a reaction, but an expectation. People (including myself) have fallen into the trap of expecting something bad to happen at any time. When we have the expectation that something will get on our nerves or go horribly wrong, the chances are we will highlight it when it does. It also clouds our ability to seek out the positive things during the day. So of course, with this mindset of expecting to get angry, a host of problems arise. We identify the children we work with as being impossible to help rather than searching for their strengths and developing them (the view of most people here in town). We treat children as problems to be dealt with rather than individuals who are constantly learning and gathering information about the world around them.

And with that being said, the danger is that children develop the same view from the influence of the people they learn from - that they are problems that need to be dealt with, or could do something that will cause an anger explosion at any time. The expectation becomes that they cannot change who they are, and who they are is a bad kid who cannot do good, or is stupid, or will never do anything of consequence in their lives. The case today may have stemmed from our expectations of them as “bad kids.” The boys might as well have carried the label as a bumper sticker on their foreheads. And of course they played the part today. And of course people were angry about it.

But this is to ignore the good things that happened on the same day. This is to ignore the positive steps taken by other kids. Rather than thinking that there is always something to be angry about we should remind ourselves that something positive happens every day. More than that, children are constantly developing in positive ways that we cannot readily identify in the moment. Admittedly this is more difficult, and very hard to see day to day. That’s what makes being in this line of work so challenging, and at many times frustrating. The progress isn’t always easily evident. There may not be a clear talking point at the end of the day, while bad events are readily identifiable and easy to latch on to.

It’s just a matter of training yourself to believe that one small, hard to identify positive outweighs the gigantic negative.

Until next time...

East to Istanbul

2010-01-08T11:58:00.004-05:00

So after less than a day of rest in my site after Christmas, I was back on the move – this time for a week long trip down into Turkey to the gigantic and ancient city of Istanbul (or Constantinople… however you prefer…).

The change was apparent as soon as we stepped off the bus as we tried to negotiate a decent cab fare – the first in a long series of haggling that would become one of the themes of the trip throughout the week. After a relaxing first night walking around the area of our hostel and settling down with a hooka, we got up and started to tackle the city. And when I say tackle the city I mean wander around aimlessly, stumbling on interesting things along the way. I usually prefer to explore cities by getting lost in them…

The first day we took a lot of pictures in the main square, which features 2 incredible buildings right across from each other…

On the left side stands the Blue Mosque – the crowning achievement of Sultan Ahmet and built by the same architects (apparently) that designed the Taj Mahal (a dubious claim, but interesting nonetheless). As you get closer and closer to the building, the scale becomes more and more apparent, despite the delicate appearance of its domes and minarets. The Blue Mosque is fully functional, and calls to prayer blast from the minarets 5 times a day – long drawn out wails that can be heard throughout the city. Inside, the floor is divided into two halves – one side for worshippers, and the others for those just passing through. Both sides seem to offer an equally impressive view of the interior of the mosque, which is decked from floor to ceiling in individually hand painted blue tiles, giving the building its nickname.

On the right side of the square is the gigantic Hagia Sophia (pronounced Ayasofia, and translated as “Holy Wisdom”) historically one of the most important buildings of Christianity before it was sacked and turned into a mosque by the Ottomans. Built over 1500 years ago when the city was the capital of the Roman Empire, the structure has been added on to over the years, allowing a visitor to peel back layer after layer of history. Standing in the great hall is a breathtaking experience, as one looks up into what was once the largest dome in the world until St. Peter’s was built about 1000 years later. The contrast on the inside is unmistakably apparent, as historians have started to uncover the early Christian frescoes and mosaics that adorned the ceiling and walls. Right next to these ancient paintings lie Islamic decorations and references to Mecca. In this way, standing in the Hagia Sophia not only serves as a reminder of so many great eras of human history, but also serves as a connection between two major world religions (often at odds with each other) – a very humbling experience indeed.

Also located on a far corner of the square is the entrance to the Basilica Cistern, a magical place of water underneath the streets of Istanbul. The huge room once served as the city’s water supply and dates back to the Roman times. This is evident in the 400 columns that support the arched ceiling of the chamber, which feature all 3 major Roman architectural styles – Doric, Ionic, Corinthian. Two of the columns stem from images of Medusa, turned upside down and sideways in order to negate the evil gaze. This is apparently to protect the place from harm. Apparently they have done a good job, as it’s still standing despite the chamber’s extremely fragile appearance. Recent renovations have placed a beautiful lighting system throughout the cistern, creating a mystical atmosphere as you walk around this amazing and ancient place.

The second day brought us to the famous Grand Bazaar, a neverending maze of corridors and alleys that spans an entire district of the city, all lined with countless vendors selling everything from scarves to carpets to drums. Of course, each one claims to have the best goods in the whole city, and of course this means that they want you to pay a premium for it. But then the fun starts… “For you my friend I give special price," and the haggling begins. Every interaction with the vendors is an intricate dance – wavering between too high and too low, until you land somewhere in the middle. I think I fared pretty well for myself, buying a Turkish drum and a scarf for myself.

The madness didn’t end there, however. We also made a stop at the Spice Market, which was even crazier than the Grand Bazaar in its vendors’ pleas for business and haggling. Smells ranging from the sweet to the pungent bombard you on all sides, as you walk down the great hall lined with mounds of herbs, tea, and Turkish delight. Regardless of the massive crowd, I made it out of there with a pretty good sampling of spices.

There were relaxing parts too, such as a stroll along the sea, and our exploration of the old Topkapi Palace. The confines of the palace offer the best views of the city and of the Bosphorus Strait, which divides European Turkey from its Asian side.

Upon leaving Istanbul, I realized that just one visit to this place is not nearly enough to absorb all that this place has to offer. The sheer size of the city alone (ten million… Bulgaria, by comparison, has a total of 7 million people in the whole country) is enough to make one realize that there are probably countless treasures hidden throughout… places that will never make it onto any map or into any guidebook. Our group found one such place, and its friendly owner treated us to an incredible New years experience... Dancing horo together with strangers and friends alike under the fireworks as the whole city rang in New Years is something that I will never forget.

The whole trip left a good taste in my mouth, and I definitely want to return not only to Istanbul, but also deeper into Turkey, a beautiful place at once Middle Eastern and European, and serving as the perfect blend of both.

Until next time…

Peace Corps presents Christmas Vacation

2010-01-05T04:50:00.007-05:00

Hey all… It’s been a little while since my last post, but it’s also been a little while since I’ve been home to even write one. I just returned from an epic vacation that I’m still kind of reeling from. This was my longest break yet, and well deserved if I might say so myself.

My final day in Preslav was spent running a talent show and game night for the children of the town in which I, once again, was somehow coaxed into dressing up as Diado Koleda/Santa Claus. Early the next morning I was off to the mountains far far away from my site. It took an overnight train and then an additional 5 hour bus ride, and then another 30 minute cab ride to reach the place, but the journey was worth it. We got in at night, so we couldn’t really see how beautiful the place was until we woke up the next morning. However, the amazing food that kept coming was as good a sight as any. Plus the company was fantastic. We basically relaxed by the fire, played games, watched movies, and sang songs the whole time. Basically a very laid back time, which was just what I needed.

This is the view I was greeted with out the window next to my bed when I woke up...

Delchevo is a small village high up in the mountains near the Greek border, looking down upon the regional center of Gotse Delchev. The place has been preserved as an ethnographic site, sealing its appearance as it might have looked 100 years ago. Cars cannot access most areas of the town, and all the houses are located along tiny cobblestone roads and old goat paths. In fact, goats freely wander the town, and old ladies with wispy beards talk about them to you as you wander.

The town seems to be in an interesting state of transition as many of the old houses are converted into fully renovated guesthouses and apartments. We stayed in one of these guesthouses, and it felt nicer than a lot of hotels I’ve stayed in. Right next door was a ramshackle barn that could have been over a hundred years old.

The main attraction, however, was Christmas dinner, made by none other than 2 of my fellow group members. A gigantic spread of every carb imaginable was presented to us, and it was amazing – baked ziti, cheesy potatoes with sausage, broccoli and rice, not to mention the dozens of desserts contributed by everyone. White elephant gift exchange was played, like last year, and I ended up with an amazing book, which I was pretty happy about and have been working on over the past couple weeks.

Alas, there was no snow, but there was no complaining from this Florida boy. The whole couple of days seemed Christmasy enough for me, spending time with good friends in a great place. But the vacation was not over just yet – I headed back to my site, only to turn back again a day later on an even longer trip down to Istanbul, which was a trip that I will not soon forget… and the topic of the next blog post…

Greg in the News

2009-12-18T12:33:00.011-05:00

SO recently the local newspaper did a feature on none other than yours truly. The following is a translation of the article in its entirety (and no I didn't just make up the translation). The article is pretty positive I think, if not a bit random. But hey, I'm glad that they think I'm newsworthy haha...

Gregory Herb: Now Veliki Preslav is like my home

Greg Herb is the volunteer from the Peace Corps in Veliki Preslav since last October. Greg is from the State of Florida. He has been in Bulgaria since July of 2008 and now can speak Bulgarian very well.

In school he studied Psychology and Child Develoment at a university in the States. His mother is a teacher, and his grandfather is a college professor. Maybe from there he got his interest in education and working with children. He says that his interest is working with at-risk children - orphans, minorities, the Roma people ("gypsies"). In Bulgaria there is an opportunity to work with these children he says. Because of this, a part of his work in Preslav is at the local Home for Children. He helps with math, English, and reading. There is competition in sports, and participation in art. They learn life skills which are very important for them in his opinion. He works in small groups of about 5-10 children. He tries to get every child to participate in at least one group every week. In his opinion, the children are not very aware of of the dangers of the use of narcotics, of human trafficking, of prevention of HIV/AIDS, of alcohol and nicotine addictions.

"The orphanages in America are different from the local kinds," describes Greg. "The children are placed in smaller houses and more volunteers work with them. The children are placed with foster parents more, and they are more comparable to these SOS Villages in Bulgaria. In America, only children who do not have parents or who have parents but that absolutely cannot care for them can stay in orphanages. There are many organizations that work with these children and make many things possible for them, such as finding a new home, because this is very important for them" says Greg.

Other than the orphanage, he works also with the children at the preschool. He teaches them how to begin to speak words, to know the different colors, and different skills such as washing hands for example.

"Now Preslav is like my home. I have many friends here," says Gregory. He says that sometimes it is hard to be far from home but that his loved ones know that his work is here, and that they support him.

One of the many skills of Greg is cooking. He cooks alone in his apartment, and cooks soups, moussaka, and other Bulgarian cuisine. "Here there are great fresh vegetables. In America, there are more preservatives and less fresh food," says the volunteer. On the topic of Bulgarian television, Greg says he follows "Survivor" and "Dancing Stars" but does not like the soap operas.

For Christmas, the American plans to meet in the mountains with his other colleagues. He hopes there will be snow, so that there will be a good holiday feeling...

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I'm not sure why they put in the part about me cooking and watching Bulgarian TV. I think it's because Bulgarians are not accustomed to seeing people my age living by themselves, much less supporting themselves alone. Anyway, that's the impression people have of me here apparently...

In the same newspaper, a project that I am helping with is described, and I will get to that in the next blog post...

Practical...

2009-12-08T14:34:00.011-05:00

It’s been a little while since my last post, which I feel kind of bad about since much has happened in between then and now, and especially since I left the last post with a kind of negative note. I figured I’d get back into the swing of things by showing a bit of what I’ve been doing in my work to provide a kind of contrast to the rote memorization/copy method that I think is doing damage here.

A girl doing chetichki (Note that the characters in the bottom right corner of the book are NOT actually letters)

As I’ve said before, I have a number of groups focused on developing basic skills for the children at the orphanage. I focus most on math and literacy (a fact recently covered in the local newspaper, but I will get to that another time). In these groups I have tried to provide a different method of learning from which the kids are normally exposed. In this way, my goal has been to get illiterate kids up to speed as quickly as possible so that they don’t fall further behind in their classes. In a couple of my groups, this has meant starting by teaching the alphabet to children who are as far as 5th grade. I have since moved on with these kids to associate sounds with letters, and to string these sounds into words. That most basic of reading groups is now able to understand somewhat complicated words, and we are currently working on constructing our own words.

The key here, rather than to have the kids write letters over and over again, to have the children make associations with the letters and how they fit into the grand scheme of things. Copying the alphabet may create amazing penmanship, but it does little to show the children how to use those letters practically. Likewise, memorizing the alphabet and being able to recite it upon command (while a vital skill) does little to show how those letters can be arranged in different ways to create words.

With my special needs kids, I have been emphasizing the sounds of the letters as well, and in some instances the kids can begin picking up on words that start with the same sounds. It’s not much right now but it’s a start, especially considering that their conversational skills are still not their strong point…

Recently I have noticed that a tutor has been reinforcing the sounds of the letters rather than having the kids copy the letters over and over, and is giving many of the kids one on one attention. While this may seem pretty basic to those of us who were lucky enough to have gone through a child-focused educational system, this has been a breath of fresh air for me here. It shows that there is at least a desire to have the kids learn how to practically apply the lessons they learn rather than just have it make it look like they can.

I have heard from some coworkers that there are now some after-school groups for reading and other basic topics that are open for the kids. This blew my mind when I first heard it. I was so excited to see that the kids are being given attention in smaller groups like they need and deserve. I was even more excited to see that the teachers are actually willing to spend the extra time with the kids (something that I have rarely seen in my year and a half here). Education is not simply a 9-5 profession but a desire and a need to ensure the success of the next generation. This isn't a scientific observation, but I'm willing to wager that the success of a class is directly proportional to the amount of support given by its teachers and care providers. I know that there is a huge potential here amongst the kids in Bulgaria that's just now starting to be tapped. It's exciting to me that the child care professionals in this country are realizing this. And I’m so glad I can be a part (however small) of that ever-important realization…

Until next time…

follow-up...

2009-11-22T08:40:00.005-05:00

This is an article from today's Novinite (national Bulgarian news) that I thought tied in very well with my last blog post.

50% of Bulgaria High School Graduates Said to Be ‘Illiterate’

Some 50% of Bulgarian high school graduates are illiterate in the sense that they don’t know basic spelling and grammar rules.

This is according to Evelina Gecheva, a manager of “Akademika”, a Bulgarian online education portal.

Gecheva bases her claims on information from professors grading university entrance exams, and other sources. In her words, it is unclear how many of the young people in Bulgaria are illiterate since there are no formal criteria for “literacy”. She believes this collapse in Bulgarian education would require the aid of the state and the whole society to be overcome.

In the fall of 2009, Akademika started an initiative entitled “Be Literate”. As part of it, a number of university and high school experts have made it clear the high school programs in Bulgarian language and literature must be restructured, and new Bulgarian language textbooks need to drafted as they are filled with foreign and incomprehensible words.

http://www.novinite.com/view_news.php?id=110264

Chetichki

2009-11-20T03:47:00.009-05:00

This blog post has taken me about a year to gather into anything worth writing, mostly because I’ve been trying to understand the reasoning behind it for approximately that long. I’m still not too sure I understand it fully, and this post might come off as sounding very critical and/or negative. However, I feel like it’s something very important – maybe one of the most important aspects of the education system here in Bulgaria – and I think it says a lot about my work here.

When I arrived here in Preslav, I had no idea what I would be doing and only a vague sense of who I would be working with. I had some ideas, but didn’t really know how to implement them. In fact, I spent a good part of my first 6 months just feeling out the situation here and trying to understand what was happening around me. I had started some groups, mostly revolving around English, since that’s all I could really do at the time, and a math group. I had some art and sports going as well. However, there was something odd happening and I couldn’t really put my finger on it. Most of my kids were way behind in classes, yet could pretend like they were working perfectly. They would fill pages and pages of notebooks with homework that didn’t mean anything. A typical homework help session would involve me walking around the room as several children copied words from a textbook, or pretended to write notes, roughly looking like this: “alguprRDH dahduDHNNn. ..dhgaBBkd, LHDabfnk.” As you might imagine, this was somewhat alarming to me.

But it wasn’t the fact that they weren’t writing anything meaningful that was alarming to me. It wasn’t the fact that they didn’t know how to read, and it wasn’t the fact that the children didn’t know anything was wrong. Only now do I realize what was causing the sick feeling in my stomach. The supervisors, the tutors, the teachers… all of the child care workers were actively encouraging it. I slowly realized the system was not to teach children how to write, just how to make it look like they were writing.

I would ask the children what it was they were writing, and some would shrug their shoulders, some kids pointed to a random word in the textbook, and some would just flat out lie and say they were writing something that wasn’t even remotely related to anything. One child had filled a page up with nothing but his name, beautifully written in perfect cursive script, all the instances of which blurred together and connecting as if it were one long, flowing penmanship exercise.

And now I know that basically, it was.

This year, I have a somewhat deeper understanding of the situation, since I have observed the youngest kids start first grade at the beginning of the year, and have been tracking what they are up to. What I found just flat out astounded me. I had known for some time that the children here don’t learn how to read or write until they reach first grade. It had been frustrating to me to be told that I couldn’t teach the kids at the preschool some basic reading skills because of “the system” in place (I have since gone ahead and done it anyway). It wouldn’t have been as big a deal if I didn’t know the method.

In the first grade, starting about the 3rd week or so, the children start a process called “Chetichki,” roughly translated to “little readings” or something of the sort. Chetichki consist of different patterns of lines and circles, mostly meaningless, that the children are to copy over and over again until they have perfectly recreated the original pattern. The theory behind this method is to prepare the children to learn how to write actual letters and to write in nice cursive script almost immediately. I have 6 first graders that I work with in the orphanage, and all of them spent most of their homework time painstakingly copying these chetichki. If one was wrong or out of place, they would have to start over and do the pattern again. Mostly, the patterns looked very little like letters. Why the children don't skip this altogether and start by learning how to write the actual letters has just recently become clear to me. The system has been created based on appearance instead of substance.

Eventually, the children do start learning the letters of the Cyrillic alphabet. However, the method stays the same. The children are assigned pages and pages of perfect Cyrillic writing, and in the end they have something that you could hang on a wall, but nothing that has actually gotten into their minds. No development has taken place, just copying. When I ask the children what letter they have written, or what sound it makes, they mostly cannot give the correct answer.

There is a huge illiteracy problem in the orphanage. I have spent the better part of my time there teaching several children how to read their own language. In the beginning I discarded all pretentions of teaching little kids English, or catching them up in literature, or even helping as a tutor. Mostly, I have been teaching the very basics of reading and math. And what is amazing to me is that in almost every circumstance, every kid in these groups has been able to write perfectly. If this was a penmanship competition, I’m sure that one of my kids would take first place. Unfortunately it isn’t, and having perfect handwriting doesn’t mean anything if you can’t understand what it says. It seems that the best way to become literate through this system is to either pick it up the very first time before the teacher moves on to the next lesson or to have constant parental reinforcement outside of school to supplement the lessons. Often, the children at the orphanage are not afforded either opportunity. The children who do actually learn how to write are discouraged from doing so freely and creatively because they might make a mistake. Great work might be rejected because it doesn't look good.

Yet this method is perfect for the schools here. It allows them to grant very high grades to children for little work or little absorption. It allows schools to keep the same number of children in each grade so that they are granted the same amount of funding. It’s why there are 5th graders who can’t read the word “Az” (me), or who can’t identify the letter H (Cyrillic n). It’s why kids can copy pages of math tables and not be able to count to 5 properly. It’s why the achievement gap in Bulgaria is as huge as it is. Because in many instances the objective is to make it look like the kids are achieving rather than actually making sure they are.

Overall, during my time here I have realized that the real challenges in this country lie in where its leaders have placed its priorities. There’s no lack of resources, but they are going to the wrong places. There’s no lack of teaching methods, it’s that the methods aren’t working. The children leave school with the appearance of a vast library of knowledge, but no practical way to apply it. There is no shortage of teachers, but there is a shortage of passion to teach. It’s why when I ask my kids what they dream of being when they grow up, nobody says the President of Bulgaria. Almost everyone answers a taxi driver or a waitress.

It sounds dumb, but everything starts in the beginning. If the priority is to teach and have the children absorb and develop, the child will be successful. Literacy and passion for learning emerge and flourish at a young age. If the priority is to make it look like the child is working - the emphasis on appearance rather than achievement - the system has failed before it even gets off the ground.

Until next time…